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Routes in Main Wall

A Rememberance of Jeff S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Autumn Gold T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
BT Express T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Backseat Delilah T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Diagonal, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Digital Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Frog T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flying Squirrel T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Highly Wired T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
I Yam What I Yam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Into the Country (aka Out in the Country) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mescaline Daydream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Primitive Paradox T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Punk Wave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rapture of the Steep T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Truth or Consequences T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wings of Wallenda T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Stegg
Page Views: 826 total · 9/month
Shared By: Stephen Felker on Oct 30, 2010
Admins: saxfiend

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Climbing Permit Needed-Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Begin on horizontals; work up and left to the overhanging crack/corner; pull three overlaps to the top; rap from P2 belay on 'Chimney Route'

Location

15 meters left of 'Mescaline Daydream'

Protection

Small to medium cams

Photos

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JohnWesely
Red River Gorge
 
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
 
This climb is so fun, a total thug haul. I didn't find it to be dangerous. A bomber cam protects the opening moves with an attentive belayer, and the next sequence where ground fall is possible is probably the easiest sequence in the meat of the route. Double ropes would allow you to have G-rated gear on the traverse without fear of rope drag. Jan 28, 2013
Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
 
Stephen Felker   Boulder, CO
 
I agree that there is a spot or two of pumpy "no fall" territory over a bad landing. However, this is a cool climb, and there is some key protection that can minimize the risk.

The webbing at the top is new as of fall '10, but the pins and chockstone are definitely old school. I back it up until the final rap. Feb 14, 2011
rock-fencer
Columbia, SC
  5.11+ PG13
rock-fencer   Columbia, SC
  5.11+ PG13
This has a campus start on good horizontals leading up to some creative footwork out before getting situated in the horizontals. This is not a finger crack, this is a pumpy horizontal haul that takes big gear. Serious potential for ground fall in certain places. Great climb but packs a punch. Rack: assortment of finger sizes, .5-#3, doubles on .75 C4's, some nuts and runners.

P2 of Chimney route anchor is currently 2 rusty pitons and a small chockstone w/ black webbing and rap rings. (2/13/2011) Feb 14, 2011

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