Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Shannon Stegg, Chris Wilson and Larry Myers, 1980
Page Views: 8,278 total · 57/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Feb 16, 2007
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route

21 Opinions

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Access Issue: Climbing Permit Needed-Seasonal Raptor Closure Details


Pitch 1: Start at hand crack in a corner down stream from Primitive Paradox. Follow this crack through blocky bulge working left. Follow steep face to right facing corner and a fixed belay station. Double check this anchor and back up when necessary.
Pitch 2: Step left, around the corner, then up to a flake and finger crack to a bolted belay station. Many parties rap here.
Pitch 3: Traverse right and through huge roof following easiest path to a ledge, then continue to top.


Down and right of Primitive Paradox. At the obvious hand crack in a corner.


Standard Rack, long slings. Tag line may be helpful if rapping from second pitch.
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
Couple things: First, you can link the first two pitches easily with a 70m rope. Second, the last move on this route is probably way harder than 10a. You're standing on a big ledge at that point and can contemplate it as long as you want, but it's a hard layback move off a crimp to gain the top of the 10' block and the walkoff. Finally, there are a couple of finishes to the second pitch, you can stay in the crack, which goes rattley fingers for the last move or two to the belay, or move left to some slightly easier face climbing and traverse back right almost even with the belay. Mar 29, 2007
Tim Johnson
Athens, GA
Tim Johnson   Athens, GA
Climbing in April 2010, my partner and I found a fine rat's nest of old gear and slings at the belay at the top of pitch one. We left a fresh cordolet and a locker to rappel, but I regret not bringing a knife to remove some of old trash. Apr 13, 2010
Clemson, S.C.
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
Punk Wave now has some new bolts at the top of P1. It was refreshing seeing those and not the "rat's nest". I am assuming the thanks goes to sf, thanks buddy! On another note, watch for bird pooh on the P1 slab, there is a lot of it. Dec 15, 2012
Just to clear up a few things for other parties: P1 does indeed have two bolts for an anchor. leaving pitch one it is possible to step directly left from the belay out of the corner and onto a ledge to begin the second pitch. the second pitch anchor has one bolt and takes finger and tips size pieces for the belay. if you're not doing the third pitch it is possible to traverse left to the Primitive Paradox anchors and make a single rope rap to the ground( a single 60m barely reaches) Dec 10, 2014