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Inner Passage
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 1.5 from 6
votes
Routes in Southeast Face
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Alcazar S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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As You Like It S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Camelot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chapalot S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cyberwanker S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Finishing School S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Forced Stress S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fort Stress S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gargoyle S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Inner Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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No Name 1 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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No Name 2 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Pitched Battle T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Quartz Jester S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Rupley Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sir Clipalot S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sneak Attack S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Steel Crazy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tres Frijoles S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Yo Yo Pinnacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 32.43213, -110.79756 |
| FA: | Merle Wheeler, Scott Williams, 1971 |
| Page Views: | 630 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Jon.R on Sep 12, 2021 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here.
Details
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Description
An old-school, adventurous romp with surprisingly good rock/protection** following weaknesses up an impressive wall. I think with some traffic and the right attitude, this might be a 3 star route! You may find the 5.7+ rating in the guidebook to be a tiddly bit old-fashioned.
P1 | 5.8 |100': Boulder onto the low angle ramp 15' right of the ugly corner. Work left, heading for a small tree above an overhang. Pull the overhang (crux). Post crux, there are some appliance sized blocks that don't look very attached. Skirt underneath these to the right, step over them, and belay on a large ledge (save a #1 for the belay).
P2 | 5.7 | 100': move right off the belay 5 or 10ish feet and head up lichen covered jugs, eventually climbing just right of a gully/crack. You basically end up heading straight up, towards the large hole which you tunnel through (awesome!). Emerge from the tunnel, gingerly tip-toe up some flakes (mental crux) and setup a belay. ** The flakes felt way more solid than they looked but it would be really bad if they became dislodged. I was happy to be seconding this section.
P3 | 5.9 | 70': Look over at the Orifice wantonly, question why you're not clipping perma-draws, and head up obvious crack system. Gear belay in the large notch at the top of the Fortress. Pretty dang fun. P2/P3 link okay with careful slinging.
Location
This route is more on the East face of the Fortress. Walk beneath, and just past the Orifice into a large alcove with a really gross looking R Facing corner with a crack in it. Start in the corner (yuck!) or 10-15' to the right up a ramp. The route is by itself, a ways uphill from Clipalot and the other SE face routes.
Squeezing the Lemmon 3 has a nice overhead that's helpful.
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