Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here. Details

Description

The southeast face of the Fortress boasts some of the best and longest multi-pitch routes on the mountain. The style of these routes is both traditional and sport. There are also a number of single pitch lines that are worth exploring. The not-to-be-missed, multi-pitch sport routes are Steel Crazy, Fort Stress, and Sir Clipalot. This face is sunny until mid or late afternoon.

Advice for the multi-pitch routes:
  • Walk off rather than rappel. Be aware that this requires climbing down and up a 15ft gully.
  • Leave your pack at toe of crag as this is where the walk off ends.
  • Start early during monsoon season as afternoon rains and lightning can occur suddenly.

Getting There

Approach the The Fortress using the directions up one level. Immediately prior to reaching the formation pick up a sometimes overgrown trail on the left. The trail winds through small bushes while losing elevation before hugging the cliff. The approach takes approximately 10 minutes from the toe of the cliff or about 30 minutes from the parking lot.

Route finding hints:

19 Total Climbs

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Location: Southeast Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Southeast Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 117
Steel Crazy
Sport 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 19
The Rupley Route
Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 48
Fort Stress
Sport 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 8
Tres Frijoles
Sport 3 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 14
Sir Clipalot
Sport 3 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 3
Chapalot
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Steel Crazy
 117
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 4 pitches
The Rupley Route
 19
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Fort Stress
 48
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport 4 pitches
Tres Frijoles
 8
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport 3 pitches
Sir Clipalot
 14
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
Chapalot
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Southeast Face »

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