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Routes in Southeast Face

Alcazar S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
As You Like It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Camelot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chapalot S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cyberwanker S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finishing School S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Forced Stress S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fort Stress S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gargoyle S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Name 1 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
No Name 2 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pitched Battle T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quartz Jester S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rupley Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sir Clipalot S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sneak Attack S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steel Crazy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tres Frijoles S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Yo Yo Pinnacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, Sport, 350 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Colby (2000)
Page Views: 749 total, 8/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on Sep 4, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 Details

Description

Four pitches:

Pitch 1 (70 ft, 5.10, BC): Vertical, featureless face climbing leads to large flakes. The first four bolts are the crux of the route.

Pitch 2 (80 ft, 5.9, BC): From the anchors of the first pitch scramble onto the ramp. To continue on 'Pitched Battle' select the leftmost bolted line. Note 'Steel Crazy' is now the line immediately to the right of 'Pitched Battle'. Knobs and flakes give way to slightly thinner climbing on this pitch.

Pitch 3 (150 ft, 5.3, BGC): Low-angle, chickenhead hiking is found on this long pitch. The mild climbing can be protected with slings and nuts. There is one bolt around the 50 foot mark. Alternatively, from the anchors of the second pitch, one can trend right for 20ft and hit the anchors for the second pitch of 'Steel Crazy'.

Pitch 4 (50 ft, 5.0, G): Choose your own route to top out. The climbing is low angle and can be protected with slings and nuts.

Location

To reach 'Pitched Battle' hike down the east side of the Fortress and squeeze through a narrow passage. 'Pitched Battle' is the left most route on this platform.

'Steel Crazy' and 'Rupley Route' are to the left of the first pitch. 'Poquito Bandito' is to the right.

Protection

12 quickdraws, 6 slings, and a set of nuts is more than sufficient. We climbed it comfortably without nuts.

Photos

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Larry
SoAZ
Larry   SoAZ
Regarding the second pitch: which route is to the left of the prominent black streak, and which is to the right?

Is Pitched Battle to the left and Steel Crazy to the right? Aug 14, 2015