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Routes in Southeast Face

Alcazar S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
As You Like It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Camelot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chapalot S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cyberwanker S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finishing School S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Forced Stress S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fort Stress S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gargoyle S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Name 1 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
No Name 2 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pitched Battle T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quartz Jester S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rupley Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sir Clipalot S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sneak Attack S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steel Crazy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tres Frijoles S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Yo Yo Pinnacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Mike Witt & Scott Ayers (1996)
Page Views: 472 total, 11/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on Jul 20, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 Details

Description

Chimney from the narrow slot to obtain the detached outcropping or simply walk around to start ten feet above. Commit to the the face, minding the gap, to reach the first bolt. Tenuous face climbing leads into a right-facing weakness, which is followed by a brief section of easier climbing. Smear on down-turned crystals while clawing for edges to overcome the second crux. Upon reaching a grungy looking pillar trend right, clipping two bolts, before finishing up the arete.

Chapalot is recommended for those who enjoy thin face. The rock prior to the arete is absolutely stellar; the rock on the arete is actually better than it appears. The bottom half of this route is sustained and delicate while the upper half has nice exposure.

Upon reaching the chains one can probably continue up by working behind the large pillar that Fort Stress ascends. From here one can join numerous other routes.

Location

Upon reaching the Fortress, hike down the left (southeast) side until a narrow slot appears. Hike through this passageway. At the far end of the passageway are two sport routes with high first bolts. Alcazar is the left; Chapalot is the right.

Protection

9 bolts to a chain anchor.

One can belay from either the shaded passageway or use a belay bolt on the detached outcropping 10 feet above the base.

Photos

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