Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Southeast Face

Alcazar S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
As You Like It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Camelot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chapalot S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cyberwanker S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finishing School S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Forced Stress S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fort Stress S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gargoyle S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Name 1 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
No Name 2 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pitched Battle T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quartz Jester S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rupley Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sir Clipalot S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sneak Attack S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steel Crazy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tres Frijoles S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Yo Yo Pinnacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dave Baker, Marti Woerner, Scott Williams, Mark Axen, Kem Johnson, 1975
Page Views: 105 total, 1/month
Shared By: climber pat on Jul 19, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 Details

Description

This is a full-on trad route and will provide an adventure for the sport climber.

Pitch 1. climb the top of the pinnacle. Traversing left out of the chimney on to the face is probably nicer.

Pitch 2. Climb through the left overhang.

Pitch 3. Follow the weakness to the top. This pitch could be considered R as the runouts are quite long but the climbing is easier.


Location

See squeezing the lemon, pg 306, 307.

To get down, 4th class to the top of the fortress and then walk off to the trail.

Protection

There are not any bolts on this route to guide you. I used camalots to 0.5-4, smallish TCUs, 0.5-2 Tricams and medium nuts.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments