Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Southeast Face

Alcazar S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
As You Like It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Camelot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chapalot S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cyberwanker S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finishing School S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Forced Stress S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fort Stress S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gargoyle S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Name 1 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
No Name 2 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pitched Battle T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quartz Jester S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rupley Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sir Clipalot S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sneak Attack S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steel Crazy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tres Frijoles S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Yo Yo Pinnacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Sport, 475 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Colby (1996)
Page Views: 118 total, 1/month
Shared By: GDS on Jul 18, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 Details

Description

This is an interesting three pitch route located on the left side of The Fortress formation. The line is shown well on The Fortress Left Topo in Squeezing II. We used a 60 m rope for this climb.

Pitch 1: Climb up through corners off the deck and up to a grungy roof. Work left along this roof until you can pull onto the face. This pitch used only a fraction of our total 200 ft rope length. You'll reach a belay station for a double bolt belay stance.

Pitch 2: Easily the best pitch on the route. Work up the steep crystal face and follow the bolt line along a fun right traverse to a double bolt belay.

Pitch 3: Drifts to the right along easier terrain until the bolt line eventually disappears. From this point, there is only one more bolt until the anchors appear near the top of the formation. The bolt is not visible for some distance, so you must work up along the most obvious route and trust that the bolt will appear. The runouts approach 30+ feet, but they are all on 5.6 or easier face. A light set of pro and several slings to tie off small horns might make the leader feel better.

Walk off the formation using same route discussed in the thread for Steel Crazy. Rappelling back down to the base of the cliff would be especially unpleasant for this route and is not recommended.

Location

Located on the left side of the fortress formation. The obvious bolted line that starts under a roof and to the left of Steel Crazy.

Protection

Bolts; well protected on pitches #1 and #2. Long runouts on easy terrain for pitch #3. Consider bringing a small set of nuts/cams and slings to tie off small horns. All pitches end in double bolts/chains.

Photos

Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.10c PG13
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.10c PG13
I definitely recommend bringing slings, nuts, and a couple of cams to .75. While all the hard climbing is bolt protected, the significant runouts can be alleviated with gear.

P1: 80ft (Bolts, Chains)
P2: 140ft (Bolts, Slings, Chains)
P3: 180ft (Bolts, Gear, Chains)
4th/5th class to summit: 130ft

Pitch 1 was my favorite as the opening moves were wild and pretty unique. Aug 26, 2012
1Eric Rhicard
  5.10 PG13
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.10 PG13
Some long run outs on easy ground. The traverse on the second pitch and the run outs on the third pitch can be pretty well protected with shoulder length slings on plates and chickenheads. The first pitch is fun but a little funky and the second pitch is really good. Aug 5, 2011