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Routes in Southeast Face

Alcazar S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
As You Like It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Camelot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chapalot S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cyberwanker S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finishing School S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Forced Stress S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fort Stress S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gargoyle S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Name 1 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
No Name 2 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pitched Battle T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quartz Jester S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rupley Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sir Clipalot S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sneak Attack S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steel Crazy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tres Frijoles S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Yo Yo Pinnacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Scott Ayers, Mike Witt 1993
Page Views: 178 total · 2/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Sep 17, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here. Details

Description

Fantastic, sustained, and very well-bolted. The middle section appears damn blank from below, and turns out to be pretty damn blank when you're on the route. The crux appears to be an undercling/stand-up move into the little dish in the middle of the blank section, but there are plenty of hard moves above and below.

Location

After you come around the corner to the south face of the Fortress, you will shortly come to a large, tapering chimney (Yo Yo Pinnacle--see p. 306, SQL II). This route starts just to the right--in fact, it's safest to start in the chimney for a few moves--and tackles the blank face with an overlap above. To the right of the route is a crack (Camelot) which doesn't reach the ground.

Protection

many bolts--very well protected

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