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Routes in Southeast Face

Alcazar S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
As You Like It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Camelot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chapalot S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cyberwanker S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finishing School S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Forced Stress S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fort Stress S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gargoyle S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Name 1 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
No Name 2 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pitched Battle T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quartz Jester S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rupley Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sir Clipalot S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sneak Attack S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steel Crazy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tres Frijoles S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Yo Yo Pinnacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Sport, 380 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Eric Fazio-Rhicard & Pat O'Herron
Page Views: 1,888 total, 15/month
Shared By: David Arthur Sampson on Oct 10, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 Details

Description

Um, I suppose the real crux is, as Squeezing the Lemmon suggests, the last 10 feet of the climb. But, I found much of the climb sustained. A nice route, make sure that you are comfortable with 5.9 - 5.10 moves a body length (or more) above a bolt. At times crimpy, this well protected route is a must-do!

Location

On the upper wall left of Rupleys; this is the first bolt line to the left of the Rupley Route. Begin on the first pitch of Fort Stress (or alternate) from a ledge.

Protection

Bolts and hangers with fixed anchors. Bolt count not available. Bring 15 slings or draws. One hanger is available for the belayer off of the ledge at the start of TF proper.

Photos

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Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
haha, that's hilarious eric! Oct 23, 2015
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.9+
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.9+
Just to clarify, this route is 2 pitches and approximately 160 feet. It begins a pitch or two off the ground and can be reached by climbing the first pitch or two of many routes including: Fort Stress, Gargoyle, and Mid-evil. The second pitch, which is extremely mild, is entirely devoid of bolts but can be protected by slinging chickenheads. The anchors for Fort Stress can be used to belay at the top.

Great route. Aug 23, 2009
Nice Eric. Interesting story. Oct 2, 2008
A story about the name. This climb was drilled ground up on lead with no hooks. I mention this only as an explanation for the sporty spacing of the bolts. It is easier to climb than stop and drill a lot. It also saves juice in the battery. Anyway, I was about to drill the bolt that protects the move onto the lower angle ramp which is about two thirds of the way up. As I looked for a spot to drill I noticed what looked like a bolt hole so I tried to slide my blow tube into it. It turned out that is was a hole. So I pounded a bolt into it. I found two more holes above that and they were roughly where I wanted to drill again so I used them. It turns out that someone else had started drilling from the top possibly after top-roping the route and had run out of juice or something. I wonder who that might have been? Hmm. In any case I got 3 free holes, thus the name. Oct 11, 2007