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Routes in Southeast Face

Alcazar S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
As You Like It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Camelot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chapalot S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cyberwanker S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finishing School S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Forced Stress S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fort Stress S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gargoyle S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Name 1 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
No Name 2 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pitched Battle T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quartz Jester S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rupley Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sir Clipalot S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sneak Attack S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steel Crazy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tres Frijoles S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Yo Yo Pinnacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Colby, 1996
Page Views: 112 total · 1/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Sep 17, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 Details

Description

We only did the first pitch of this route, but it's an excellent pitch in its own right so I'm taking the liberty of adding it here. Perhaps someone can fill in pp. 2-3?

Pitch one begins with two bolts (stoppers can protect the tricky move to bolt #1), with a solid 5.10 move past the second bolt to reach a fun, face-hold encrusted crack that takes great gear. The pitch finishes up with thought-provoking moves past two bolts to an anchor shared with Cyberwanker.

Location

This route is shortly after you round the corner to the Fortress's south face. It is the first route right of Cyberwanker, and is identified by a crack which does not reach the ground. Two bolts lead to the crack.

Protection

a single set of cams to a #1 camalot and a set of nuts is sufficient for P1. SQL II recommends gear to 2.5 inch for the entire route.

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