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Routes in Southeast Face

Alcazar S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
As You Like It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Camelot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chapalot S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cyberwanker S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finishing School S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Forced Stress S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fort Stress S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gargoyle S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Name 1 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
No Name 2 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pitched Battle T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quartz Jester S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rupley Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sir Clipalot S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sneak Attack S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steel Crazy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tres Frijoles S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Yo Yo Pinnacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
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Type: Sport, 240 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Scott Ayers & Mark Colby (1993)
Page Views: 2,280 total · 33/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on Aug 26, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 Details

Description [Edit]

Three pitches; three headwalls; three stars in the guidebook.

Pitch 1 (5.10c): Balance up two bolts of slab to easier climbing. The third bolt is 30ft up at the headwall. Decipher getting vertical and ascend to the anchors of the first pitch.

Pitch 2 (5.10a): A challenging finger lock leads to milder, left trending terrain. Ascend a rounded arete while enjoying the scenery.

Pitch 3 (5.11b): Walk for twenty feet while heading for a dead vertical orange wall on the right. The belay could optionally be moved here. The last 60 feet are absolutely incredible: beautiful moves on gorgeous rock with great exposure. The crux is both awesome and challenging.

While this route is fantastic, it is not classic due to its inconsistency. Each pitch has both beautiful climbing and a rather dull section. That said if you climb the grade you should get on it.

Location [Edit]

Sir Clipalot is the first bolted line past the Orifice on the east face (left side) of the Fortress.

To reach the route hike to the Fortress and drop down to the left using the climber's trail. Most climbers stash unnecessary gear prior to dropping down. This is where you will walk off.

Protection [Edit]

This is a well bolted sport route with chain anchors. A dozen quickraws and personal anchors is sufficient. Each pitch has a runout section on significantly easier terrain.

Walk off the formation via the standard trail, which is described elsewhere. This involves a few moves of easy fifth class.

The route is a pretty straight shot and could potentially be rappelled should a monsoon storm be encountered.


Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
so am i correct to assume this route gets morning sun and afternoon shade as it is on the east face of the fortress?

the answer to this question appears to be yes, though i'm not sure exactly when it goes into the shade. Sep 2, 2016

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