Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Southeast Face

Alcazar S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
As You Like It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Camelot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chapalot S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cyberwanker S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finishing School S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Forced Stress S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fort Stress S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gargoyle S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Name 1 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
No Name 2 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pitched Battle T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quartz Jester S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rupley Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sir Clipalot S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sneak Attack S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steel Crazy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tres Frijoles S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Yo Yo Pinnacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 240 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Scott Ayers & Mark Colby (1993)
Page Views: 2,430 total · 33/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on Aug 26, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


13 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here. Details

Description

Three pitches; three headwalls; three stars in the guidebook.

Pitch 1 (5.10c): Balance up two bolts of slab to easier climbing. The third bolt is 30ft up at the headwall. Decipher getting vertical and ascend to the anchors of the first pitch.

Pitch 2 (5.10a): A challenging finger lock leads to milder, left trending terrain. Ascend a rounded arete while enjoying the scenery.

Pitch 3 (5.11b): Walk for twenty feet while heading for a dead vertical orange wall on the right. The belay could optionally be moved here. The last 60 feet are absolutely incredible: beautiful moves on gorgeous rock with great exposure. The crux is both awesome and challenging.

While this route is fantastic, it is not classic due to its inconsistency. Each pitch has both beautiful climbing and a rather dull section. That said if you climb the grade you should get on it.

Location

Sir Clipalot is the first bolted line past the Orifice on the east face (left side) of the Fortress.

To reach the route hike to the Fortress and drop down to the left using the climber's trail. Most climbers stash unnecessary gear prior to dropping down. This is where you will walk off.

Protection

This is a well bolted sport route with chain anchors. A dozen quickraws and personal anchors is sufficient. Each pitch has a runout section on significantly easier terrain.

Walk off the formation via the standard trail, which is described elsewhere. This involves a few moves of easy fifth class.

The route is a pretty straight shot and could potentially be rappelled should a monsoon storm be encountered.

Photos

Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
so am i correct to assume this route gets morning sun and afternoon shade as it is on the east face of the fortress?

EDIT
the answer to this question appears to be yes, though i'm not sure exactly when it goes into the shade. Sep 2, 2016
Dj telle
Tucson, AZ
 
Dj telle   Tucson, AZ
 
Followed the first pitch and felt like 11. 2nd pitch more like 10c and 3rd pitch is a fun 11ab but more straightforward than the 1st. Jul 25, 2018
James McNabb
Tucson
 
James McNabb   Tucson
 
Climbed this thinking it was Steel Crazy. Naturally, we were pretty surprised at the grade but gritted up it. Pretty fun route, but as described it's not sustained at the grade. Awesome final pitch. Note that the Fortress' "southeast" face is almost due south facing. We got on this route because we read that Steel Crazy was on the southeast face, and this climb is the only one that's arguably facing southeast as it is the easternmost route before the crag turns towards the Orifice. Granted, we should have looked at the crag guide more and could have easily avoided this... Aug 5, 2018

More About Sir Clipalot

Printer-Friendly