All Locations > Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (San… > Mount Lemmon (Cat… > 8 - Summit Crags > The Fortress > Southeast Face
Avg: 3.5 from 13 votes
Routes in Southeast Face
|Alcazar S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|As You Like It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Camelot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Chapalot S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Cyberwanker S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Finishing School S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Forced Stress S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Fort Stress S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Gargoyle S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|No Name 1 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|No Name 2 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Pitched Battle T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Quartz Jester S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Rupley Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Sir Clipalot S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Sneak Attack S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Steel Crazy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Tres Frijoles S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Yo Yo Pinnacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Type:||Sport, 240 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Scott Ayers & Mark Colby (1993)|
|Page Views:||2,185 total, 34/month|
|Shared By:||Hendrixson on Aug 26, 2012|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 Details
This area is closed March 15 - June 30 for peregrine falcon nesting.
DescriptionThree pitches; three headwalls; three stars in the guidebook.
Pitch 1 (5.10c): Balance up two bolts of slab to easier climbing. The third bolt is 30ft up at the headwall. Decipher getting vertical and ascend to the anchors of the first pitch.
Pitch 2 (5.10a): A challenging finger lock leads to milder, left trending terrain. Ascend a rounded arete while enjoying the scenery.
Pitch 3 (5.11b): Walk for twenty feet while heading for a dead vertical orange wall on the right. The belay could optionally be moved here. The last 60 feet are absolutely incredible: beautiful moves on gorgeous rock with great exposure. The crux is both awesome and challenging.
While this route is fantastic, it is not classic due to its inconsistency. Each pitch has both beautiful climbing and a rather dull section. That said if you climb the grade you should get on it.
LocationSir Clipalot is the first bolted line past the Orifice on the east face (left side) of the Fortress.
To reach the route hike to the Fortress and drop down to the left using the climber's trail. Most climbers stash unnecessary gear prior to dropping down. This is where you will walk off.
ProtectionThis is a well bolted sport route with chain anchors. A dozen quickraws and personal anchors is sufficient. Each pitch has a runout section on significantly easier terrain.
Walk off the formation via the standard trail, which is described elsewhere. This involves a few moves of easy fifth class.
The route is a pretty straight shot and could potentially be rappelled should a monsoon storm be encountered.