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Sir Clipalot
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.3 from 28
votes
Routes in Southeast Face
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Alcazar S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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As You Like It S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Camelot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chapalot S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cyberwanker S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Finishing School S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Forced Stress S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fort Stress S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gargoyle S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Inner Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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No Name 1 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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No Name 2 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Pitched Battle T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Quartz Jester S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Rupley Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sir Clipalot S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sneak Attack S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Steel Crazy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tres Frijoles S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Yo Yo Pinnacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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| Type: | Sport, 240 ft (73 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Scott Ayers & Mark Colby (1993) |
| Page Views: | 3,803 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Hendrixson on Aug 26, 2012 |
| Admins: | adrian montano, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here.
Details
This area is historically used by nesting falcons, hawks, owls or other raptors. Breeding season varies but is roughly February through July. Nesting raptors are protected by law.
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Description
Three pitches; three headwalls; three stars in the guidebook.
Pitch 1 (5.10c): Balance up two bolts of slab to easier climbing. The third bolt is 30ft up at the headwall. Decipher getting vertical and ascend to the anchors of the first pitch.
Pitch 2 (5.10a): A challenging finger lock leads to milder, left trending terrain. Ascend a rounded arete while enjoying the scenery.
Pitch 3 (5.11b): Walk for twenty feet while heading for a dead vertical orange wall on the right. The belay could optionally be moved here. The last 60 feet are absolutely incredible: beautiful moves on gorgeous rock with great exposure. The crux is both awesome and challenging.
While this route is fantastic, it is not classic due to its inconsistency. Each pitch has both beautiful climbing and a rather dull section. That said if you climb the grade you should get on it.
Pitch 1 (5.10c): Balance up two bolts of slab to easier climbing. The third bolt is 30ft up at the headwall. Decipher getting vertical and ascend to the anchors of the first pitch.
Pitch 2 (5.10a): A challenging finger lock leads to milder, left trending terrain. Ascend a rounded arete while enjoying the scenery.
Pitch 3 (5.11b): Walk for twenty feet while heading for a dead vertical orange wall on the right. The belay could optionally be moved here. The last 60 feet are absolutely incredible: beautiful moves on gorgeous rock with great exposure. The crux is both awesome and challenging.
While this route is fantastic, it is not classic due to its inconsistency. Each pitch has both beautiful climbing and a rather dull section. That said if you climb the grade you should get on it.
Location
Sir Clipalot is the first bolted line past the Orifice on the east face (left side) of the Fortress.
To reach the route hike to the Fortress and drop down to the left using the climber's trail. Most climbers stash unnecessary gear prior to dropping down. This is where you will walk off.
To reach the route hike to the Fortress and drop down to the left using the climber's trail. Most climbers stash unnecessary gear prior to dropping down. This is where you will walk off.
Protection
This is a well bolted sport route with chain anchors. A dozen quickraws and personal anchors is sufficient. Each pitch has a runout section on significantly easier terrain.
Walk off the formation via the standard trail, which is described elsewhere. This involves a few moves of easy fifth class.
The route is a pretty straight shot and could potentially be rappelled should a monsoon storm be encountered.
Walk off the formation via the standard trail, which is described elsewhere. This involves a few moves of easy fifth class.
The route is a pretty straight shot and could potentially be rappelled should a monsoon storm be encountered.
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