Avg: 3.3 from 130 votes
|Type:||Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches|
|FA:||Mark Colby, Scott Ayers, 1996|
|Page Views:||26,073 total · 119/month|
|Shared By:||James DeRoussel on Sep 6, 2002|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Pitch 1: Pumpy climbing up and over small overhang (crux?)to easier climbing above. Continue up easier terrain, slightly runout to sloping ledge. Scary, thin moves up steep face past more bolts lead to small sea of chickenheads. Follow these to two-bolt belay on huge ledge.
Pitch 2: From the belay ledge, Steel Crazy follows the right of two bolted lines. Fun 5.9 climbing on well-bolted (over-bolted?) face straight up for 100 feet. More chickenheads lead to another two bolt belay.
Pitch 3: Continue straight up over sustained climbing to chickenheaded face. Easier climbing leads to 40 foot runout onto sloping ledge just left of large chimney. At the shrubs, step across chimney (scary) to two bolt belay on right hand side.
Pitch 4: Easy climbing for 60' to belay on top.
Descent: If you are unfortunate enough to have return to your gear at the base, you can double-rope rap the route (not recommended).
Otherwise, walk off the backside of the Fortress, following the long narrow ridge that leads north back toward the saddleRequires potentially scary scrambling.