Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m)
FA: Christopher Kelly & Bill Thiry
Page Views: 306 total · 20/month
Shared By: Christopher K. on Apr 28, 2020
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Once again, depending on what you like, this may end up being your favorite route at the crag. From the base, it is impossible to tell what awaits you in this chimney route, but there is much more than mere chimney moves.

Start out climbing thin friction moves on white rock to gain a 15 foot white colored detached looking pillar/boulder on the right side of the deep crack. Climb this carefully but with good pro (this is the only suspect rock on the whole climb). Above this, enter the obvious black varnished chimney. Make classic 5.8 chimney moves for about 30-35 feet. At this point one may escape out back onto the face on the climber's right side of the chimney to keep the grade at 5.8, or if you decide to remain in the chimney, it is probably more like 5.9.

Once you arrive at the top of the traditional chimney section, you will actually bridge your body over the ever widening chimney black chimney and move your way further back into it where there is an improbable looking roof. Working your feet up and right, you will find some previously unseen jugs which keep this fun roof move at 5.8. Once above the roof, you will find yet another improbable looking roof. From here, you will also look to work your way right with some creative moves to escape around the right side of this roof. From here, continue up the beautiful black cleft until reaching the anchor which is found on the far right side of Eagle Ledge.

We always climbed and descended this with two ropes. You may be able to use a single 70 meter to descend or you may to downclimb a little at the end.

Long, great movement on perfect black varnish, interesting and engaging 5.8 moves most of the way. This is a very fun route.

Location

This climb begins on the far right side of Falcon Ledge and directly above and slightly to the left of where "Commuted Sentence" as well as the approach gully tops out.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos