Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Christopher Kelly & Bill Thiry
Page Views: 198 total · 22/month
Shared By: Christopher K. on Apr 28, 2020
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Depending on what you like, this may be the best route at the crag. This steep route up varnished rock takes you up a type of right facing corner finger crack. However the finger crack, at times, will not allow any locks, so there are several sections that involve fun and thoughtful finger layback moves. The first 10 feet or so move up on rotten white rock, but don't let that fool you into thinking the rest of the route isn't really good.

Reach a small ledge after climbing the first stellar 50 feet. From here, do a bulgy offwidth move on suspect rock to achieve an easy 4th class right leaning ramp for 20 feet or so. After moving up 20 feet on the ramp, step back out left onto the beautifully black varnished face and face climb the rest of the way on relatively steep but pretty moderate rock. Anchor shared with F-15  Eagle Crack.  

Location

This route is about 15 feet right of F-15 Eagle Crack.

Protection

Small cams and nuts. Perhaps one larger cam at bulgy off-width move halfway up. 2 draws.

Photos