F-15 Eagle Crack (2nd pitch of Megamoto)
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
FA: | Dave Custer & S. Ruff |
Page Views: | 179 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | Christopher K. on Apr 28, 2020 |
Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc |
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Begin in the right facing corner/crack system. Solid jams (5.8) lead to a bulge (5.9) where jams begin to get smaller but the rock quality improves. 50 feet of climbing gets you to a small ledge and climb continues up on solid black varnish on steep but more moderate climbing (5.7) until topping out on the spacious Eagle Ledge.
This route initially was full of friable suspect rock, but after climbing it a handful of times, began to clean up quite nicely. With more traffic, I think it will clean right up and become a very good route.
Bill Thiry and I assumed we were the first ascensionists for quite a while, as the route looked and felt completely untouched before we climbed it. However we finally discovered that this pitch coincides with the description of the second pitch of a route called "Megamoto" found in the Hog Wart section which are climbs which are on the south facing side of Raptor Tower. We are merely adding this route here for organization purposes so all the climbs which originate on Falcon Ledge are all found together.
Anchor for this climb also works as an anchor for F-16 Fighting Falcon as well.
This route name, as well as all others beginning on Falcon or Eagle Ledge, were named due to the fact that every visit to the area while developing, featured numerous visits from a host of birds of prey soaring overhead and beneath.
This route initially was full of friable suspect rock, but after climbing it a handful of times, began to clean up quite nicely. With more traffic, I think it will clean right up and become a very good route.
Bill Thiry and I assumed we were the first ascensionists for quite a while, as the route looked and felt completely untouched before we climbed it. However we finally discovered that this pitch coincides with the description of the second pitch of a route called "Megamoto" found in the Hog Wart section which are climbs which are on the south facing side of Raptor Tower. We are merely adding this route here for organization purposes so all the climbs which originate on Falcon Ledge are all found together.
Anchor for this climb also works as an anchor for F-16 Fighting Falcon as well.
This route name, as well as all others beginning on Falcon or Eagle Ledge, were named due to the fact that every visit to the area while developing, featured numerous visits from a host of birds of prey soaring overhead and beneath.
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