Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Dave Custer & S. Ruff
Page Views: 179 total · 20/month
Shared By: Christopher K. on Apr 28, 2020
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Begin in the right facing corner/crack system. Solid jams (5.8) lead to a bulge (5.9) where jams begin to get smaller but the rock quality improves. 50 feet of climbing gets you to a small ledge and climb continues up on solid black varnish on steep but more moderate climbing (5.7) until topping out on the spacious Eagle Ledge.

This route initially was full of friable suspect rock, but after climbing it a handful of times, began to clean up quite nicely. With more traffic, I think it will clean right up and become a very good route.

Bill Thiry and I assumed we were the first ascensionists for quite a while, as the route looked and felt completely untouched before we climbed it. However we finally discovered that this pitch coincides with the description of the second pitch of a route called "Megamoto" found in the Hog Wart section which are climbs which are on the south facing side of Raptor Tower. We are merely adding this route here for organization purposes so all the climbs which originate on Falcon Ledge are all found together.

Anchor for this climb also works as an anchor for F-16 Fighting Falcon as well.

This route name, as well as all others beginning on Falcon or Eagle Ledge, were named due to the fact that every visit to the area while developing, featured numerous visits from a host of birds of prey soaring overhead and beneath. 

Location

This is the far left route on the flattest most comfortable area on Falcon Ledge (the ledge system roughly 100 feet above the left side of the Raptor Tower area of Flight Path). There is a 7 foot tall white dinosaur leg bone looking piece of rock just to the right of the start.

Protection

Regular rack. Large and mid sized cams at the start. A few smaller pieces higher up.

Photos