Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Todd Swain,Teresa Krolak, 1999
Page Views: 876 total · 6/month
Shared By: GabeO on May 13, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin .

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Perhaps the best route in this section. Some routefinding is needed. Careful getting to the first bolt--if you slip, it's a long way down!

Climb the face of the huge right-facing corner, past five bolts, to near the top, where it goes left around the arete.

Location

To get down, a seventy-meter rope (or doubles) is probably needed, unless you want to rap to the end of a sixty-meter rope, and then scramble down the bottom of the Man Behind the Screen crack/corner.

Protection

standard rack

Photos

Greg Barnes
  5.9
Greg Barnes  
  5.9
You can get a thin hand-size cam (e.g. #1 Camalot) in the horizontal break before the first bolt, but a ground anchor is strongly recommended for the belayer regardless.

I replaced the 2nd bolt on this route this spring--it was a good bolt with a bad thin SMC hanger, but since the head of the bolt was damaged I had to drill a new bolt and chop the old. Dec 21, 2006
Chris Edmonds
Seattle, WA
  5.8 R
Chris Edmonds   Seattle, WA
  5.8 R
Based on how I interpreted the route overlay from the Handren book I climbed left to the arete and found myself WAY WAY above my gear on TERRIBLE rock. Folks in the Mountain Project pictures appear to stay right, but looking up that direction I saw only a super rusty bolt. One of the bolts on the anchor is sticking out significantly and chains were very rusty and need to be replaced. I really don't recommend this route. Nov 26, 2018