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Pattizabzent [Suggest Change]
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.3 from 3
votes
Routes in Flight Path Area
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"peanut brittle" T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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A Simple Expediency T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Belief in Proportion to the Evidence T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Car Talk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Common Bond of Circumstance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Commuted Sentence T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Doin' the Good Drive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Flight Path T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ignore the Man Behind the Screen T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pattizabzent T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Radio Free Kansas T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sex in the Scrub Oak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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They Call the Wind !&% T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Tom Beck, Clarissa Hageman and Marc Rosenthal |
| Page Views: | 542 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Thomas Beck on Mar 5, 2010 |
| Admins: | Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description [Suggest Change]
Done back in early 90's. Crux on every pitch. First pitch climbs beautiful double cracks out of a right facing corner to white rock and 3 bolt hanging station. 5.9
Pitch 2 ascends straight up past a bolt to a crack then an exposed thin traverse left back into the main dihedral. 5.9
Alternate pitch 2(A Mother's Lament) climbs slightly down from the station and ascends a splitter 9 crack in varnish till it ends. Move left into the main dihedral and climb past 3 or 4 bolts to the bolted anchor. solid 10b Good pitch!
Pitch 3 continues up the corner as it gets smaller and smaller. 10a/b
Pitch 2 ascends straight up past a bolt to a crack then an exposed thin traverse left back into the main dihedral. 5.9
Alternate pitch 2(A Mother's Lament) climbs slightly down from the station and ascends a splitter 9 crack in varnish till it ends. Move left into the main dihedral and climb past 3 or 4 bolts to the bolted anchor. solid 10b Good pitch!
Pitch 3 continues up the corner as it gets smaller and smaller. 10a/b
Location [Suggest Change]
Move right of the Flight Path route about 150 ft to a smaller corner with 3 trees in it. Start on a ledge about 20 ft off the deck.
Protection [Suggest Change]
Camming Gear from 0 alien to 4 Friend, doubles on 1 and 2 Camalot, 2.5 and 3 friends. Stopper set.
Rappel the route with 2 ropes - maybe a single 70m.
Leader should bring a cleaning tools as the crack on pitch 1 can fill with oak leaves,
Rappel the route with 2 ropes - maybe a single 70m.
Leader should bring a cleaning tools as the crack on pitch 1 can fill with oak leaves,
Posting more beta on this one would just encourage more people to sample this climb, so I'll refrain. Good luck and have fun kicking yourself that you didn't get on literally any other 5.10 in the park. With a week of cleaning and none of the bolts, this might be a fun climb. As is, you get what you pay for.... Feb 8, 2012