Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tom Beck, Clarissa Hageman and Marc Rosenthal
Page Views: 561 total · 5/month
Shared By: Thomas Beck on Mar 5, 2010
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin .

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Done back in early 90's. Crux on every pitch. First pitch climbs beautiful double cracks out of a right facing corner to white rock and 3 bolt hanging station. 5.9
Pitch 2 ascends straight up past a bolt to a crack then an exposed thin traverse left back into the main dihedral. 5.9
Alternate pitch 2(A Mother's Lament) climbs slightly down from the station and ascends a splitter 9 crack in varnish till it ends. Move left into the main dihedral and climb past 3 or 4 bolts to the bolted anchor. solid 10b Good pitch!
Pitch 3 continues up the corner as it gets smaller and smaller. 10a/b

Location

Move right of the Flight Path route about 150 ft to a smaller corner with 3 trees in it. Start on a ledge about 20 ft off the deck.

Protection

Camming Gear from 0 alien to 4 Friend, doubles on 1 and 2 Camalot, 2.5 and 3 friends. Stopper set.
Rappel the route with 2 ropes - maybe a single 70m.
Leader should bring a cleaning tools as the crack on pitch 1 can fill with oak leaves,

Photos

Erin Parsons  
 
This climb doesn't see much action--it's pretty dirty. The crack climbing is phenomenal, especially the second and third pitches. Don't be fooled by the odd anchor locations. There are bolted anchors for all three pitches, only above trees/out of clear view. Get ready to get dirty, especially on that first pitch... Dec 2, 2011
One of the most bizarre climbs I've ever been on. All the variations to avoid nice splitter climbing that should comprise P2 make no sense to me, and will make even less sense to you once you're looking at them in person. You will know that something's up when the description tells you to avoid the splitter in the chimney to choose chossy unprotected crumbly face.

Posting more beta on this one would just encourage more people to sample this climb, so I'll refrain. Good luck and have fun kicking yourself that you didn't get on literally any other 5.10 in the park. With a week of cleaning and none of the bolts, this might be a fun climb. As is, you get what you pay for.... Feb 8, 2012