Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Dane Kelly, Christopher Kelly & Bill Thiry|
|Page Views:||161 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||Christopher K. on Apr 28, 2020|
|Admins:||Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc|
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
This climb starts in a nice little alcove on a small but flat ledge. When you look up, you will see a very large roof and you are aiming for this.
P1: Pitch 1 is short and we did it because although you might be able to run the whole thing out into 1 very long pitch with a 70 m rope, it would create a lot of rope drag higher up. This pitch is short and pretty easy and ends on a huge ledge 25 feet below the squeeze chimney/roof.
P2: Cimb up to the squeeze chimney/roof. Wedge into the squeeze chimney and do some burly squeeze chimney moves as long as possible until it naturally spits you out back onto the face on the right side of the chimney. Reach up and to the right to find good holds to be able to swing out of the chimney onto the right face. Slightly bulgy overhanging climbing for a few moves gets you above the squeeze chimney/roof. Continue up the fun crack which alternates between fingers and hands and trends to the left. After a long ways, you will top out on a summit which is slightly lower and to the north of the main Raptor Tower summit. A solid belay can be built here.
An easy scramble across a fourth class face gives you the option to get over to Eagle Ledge or continue up and scramble to the top of the true Raptor Tower summit.
As an alternative, if already on Falcon Ledge, it can be reached by doing a traverse with adequate pro.