Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Dane Kelly, Christopher Kelly & Bill Thiry |
Page Views: | 381 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Christopher Kelly on Apr 28, 2020 |
Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc |
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This climb had a few loose holds and spots, but will clean up nicely with traffic.
This climb starts in a nice little alcove on a small but flat ledge. When you look up, you will see a very large roof and you are aiming for this.
P1: Pitch 1 is short and we did it because although you might be able to run the whole thing out into 1 very long pitch with a 70 m rope, it would create a lot of rope drag higher up. This pitch is short and pretty easy and ends on a huge ledge 25 feet below the squeeze chimney/roof.
P2: Cimb up to the squeeze chimney/roof. Wedge into the squeeze chimney and do some burly squeeze chimney moves as long as possible until it naturally spits you out back onto the face on the right side of the chimney. Reach up and to the right to find good holds to be able to swing out of the chimney onto the right face. Slightly bulgy overhanging climbing for a few moves gets you above the squeeze chimney/roof. Continue up the fun crack which alternates between fingers and hands and trends to the left. After a long ways, you will top out on a summit which is slightly lower and to the north of the main Raptor Tower summit. A solid belay can be built here.
An easy scramble across a fourth class face gives you the option to get over to Eagle Ledge or continue up and scramble to the top of the true Raptor Tower summit.
This climb starts in a nice little alcove on a small but flat ledge. When you look up, you will see a very large roof and you are aiming for this.
P1: Pitch 1 is short and we did it because although you might be able to run the whole thing out into 1 very long pitch with a 70 m rope, it would create a lot of rope drag higher up. This pitch is short and pretty easy and ends on a huge ledge 25 feet below the squeeze chimney/roof.
P2: Cimb up to the squeeze chimney/roof. Wedge into the squeeze chimney and do some burly squeeze chimney moves as long as possible until it naturally spits you out back onto the face on the right side of the chimney. Reach up and to the right to find good holds to be able to swing out of the chimney onto the right face. Slightly bulgy overhanging climbing for a few moves gets you above the squeeze chimney/roof. Continue up the fun crack which alternates between fingers and hands and trends to the left. After a long ways, you will top out on a summit which is slightly lower and to the north of the main Raptor Tower summit. A solid belay can be built here.
An easy scramble across a fourth class face gives you the option to get over to Eagle Ledge or continue up and scramble to the top of the true Raptor Tower summit.
Location
This is the obvious biggest weakness in right aspect of Raptor Tower as seen from below. It starts 10 feet to the right of the anchors for "Car Talk" and "Doin' the Good Drive." Climb “Simple Expediency” and at the end of the finger crack at the top of the route, step right around a small pillar on the right and step into the obvious belay alcove.
As an alternative, if already on Falcon Ledge, it can be reached by doing a traverse with adequate pro.
As an alternative, if already on Falcon Ledge, it can be reached by doing a traverse with adequate pro.
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