Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: Dane Kelly, Christopher Kelly & Bill Thiry
Page Views: 161 total · 18/month
Shared By: Christopher K. on Apr 28, 2020
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This climb had a few loose holds and spots, but will clean up nicely with traffic.

This climb starts in a nice little alcove on a small but flat ledge. When you look up, you will see a very large roof and you are aiming for this.

P1: Pitch 1 is short and we did it because although you might be able to run the whole thing out into 1 very long pitch with a 70 m rope, it would create a lot of rope drag higher up. This pitch is short and pretty easy and ends on a huge ledge 25 feet below the squeeze chimney/roof.

P2: Cimb up to the squeeze chimney/roof. Wedge into the squeeze chimney and do some burly squeeze chimney moves as long as possible until it naturally spits you out back onto the face on the right side of the chimney. Reach up and to the right to find good holds to be able to swing out of the chimney onto the right face. Slightly bulgy overhanging climbing for a few moves gets you above the squeeze chimney/roof. Continue up the fun crack which alternates between fingers and hands and trends to the left. After a long ways, you will top out on a summit which is slightly lower and to the north of the main Raptor Tower summit. A solid belay can be built here.

An easy scramble across a fourth class face gives you the option to get over to Eagle Ledge or continue up and scramble to the top of the true Raptor Tower summit.  

Location

This is the obvious biggest weakness in right aspect of Raptor Tower as seen from below. It starts 10 feet to the right of the anchors for "Car Talk" and "Doin' the Good Drive." Climb “Simple Expediency” and at the end of the finger crack at the top of the route, step right around a small pillar on the right and step into the obvious belay alcove.

As an alternative, if already on Falcon Ledge, it can be reached by doing a traverse with adequate pro.

Protection

Standard rack up to #5 Camalot

Photos