Hodadical Master
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British PG13
Avg: 2.3 from 4 votes
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Steve Orthel and Frank Orthel |
Page Views: | 663 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Matt Westlake on Aug 25, 2019 |
Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Description
Slabby face climbing, crimping on flat edges up past three well spread out bolts.
P1 5.9+ish: Sling a tree to prevent a nasty tumble prior to bolt 1. Climb meanders up, following available holds, trending left with a couple of possible paths leading into bolt 3, then straight to the anchor. Take care, botching clips might result in rather long falls.
P2 5.11ish: Head up and right to the looming roof and clip the (older) bolt. Crank the roof and get established on the face. Fight the lichen and follow various weaknesses to set trad gear and top out somewhere around the rap boulder.
Also entirely possible to combine both pitches.
P1 5.9+ish: Sling a tree to prevent a nasty tumble prior to bolt 1. Climb meanders up, following available holds, trending left with a couple of possible paths leading into bolt 3, then straight to the anchor. Take care, botching clips might result in rather long falls.
P2 5.11ish: Head up and right to the looming roof and clip the (older) bolt. Crank the roof and get established on the face. Fight the lichen and follow various weaknesses to set trad gear and top out somewhere around the rap boulder.
Also entirely possible to combine both pitches.
Location
Scramble up to the ledge that the hanging garden gully starts on (right side). Move a bit left and keep your eyes open for a bolt on the clean steep slabby face.
Protection
P1 3 bolts + anchor w/ rings + maybe a tiny stopper. P2 1 bolt + trad gear.
Note P1 bolts were replaced 2013.
Rap down from the large slung block in the center of the ledge. As always, check the condition of the anchor before trusting to it and be prepared to supplement or replace old cord. Note a single rope won't get you all the way down, just a bit up the gully above the tree at the mid-point. Watch your rope ends!
Note P1 bolts were replaced 2013.
Rap down from the large slung block in the center of the ledge. As always, check the condition of the anchor before trusting to it and be prepared to supplement or replace old cord. Note a single rope won't get you all the way down, just a bit up the gully above the tree at the mid-point. Watch your rope ends!
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