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Routes in Hanging Garden

Aries T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Catnip S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Double Dare S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Double Ought T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Zues S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Enter The Void T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fight or Flight T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
First In Flight T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gnatty Pale T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Good, Bad, but not too Ugly. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hercules S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Lightning Thief T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Pooh Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Porters Pooh T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Primal Rage S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pygmalion S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Season in Hell S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Seth's Pooh (aka 'Come Out Swinging') T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Stars and Bars T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sun Spot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Crimp S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Whipping Post T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zeus S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 405 total, 9/month
Shared By: Matt Westlake on May 18, 2014
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

A nice little diversion off the beaten path, this route follows a right-diagonaling finger crack up a vertical face and up a mellow (if lichenous) 5.3ish corner or slab.

From the ground it looks a bit more intimidating than it is but plentiful gear and bonus footholds keep it reasonable. There is a bit of excitement to be had puzzling out and committing to the sequence that takes you out of the crack and past the bulge that protects the easy slab. Maybe it's a 5.7 move? Not sure, but this is Moore's so I'm calling it a 5.6 - just don't forget there are more holds than the ones in/on the crack!

Location

Found on the way to the Hanging Garden Gully.

From Sentinel Buttress area, hike right passing the Fire Wall and hike down a bit passing some green vertical to slightly overhanging chossy cliffs. Continue past a little tree-choked amphitheater until the trail slopes back up. Staying on this will put you at the base of the ledge about 10 feet up that you ascend to get into the gully (left and up). Shortly before you reach this ledge there is a slabby wall on the left broken by the aforementioned crack. This is the start of the route.

Follow the crack on the left side of the easy slab all the way to it's bushy conclusion and you will find a big tree slung with some static line and links. Single 60 will get you down with room to spare and/or belay from the ground.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

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Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
This is a fun little route that is great to do if you have done the other moderates. Wish the rap tree were 40 feet up instead of having to go up the lichen slab.

I would put the crux at 5.7, even by Moore's standards. It's just a little too crimpy through the bulge to be a 5.6. Sep 18, 2017