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N Carolina
> 3. Piedmont Region
> Hanging Rock SP
> Moore's Wall (R…
> Hanging Garden
Good, Bad, but not too Ugly.
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Hanging Garden
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Aries T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Armageddon T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Catnip S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Double Dare S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Double Ought T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Double Zeus S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Enter The Void T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fight or Flight T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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First In Flight T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gnatty Pale T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Good, Bad, but not too Ugly. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hercules S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Hodadical Master T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Lightning Thief T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Pooh Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Porter's Pooh T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Primal Rage S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Pygmalion S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Season in Hell S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Seth's Pooh (aka 'Come Out Swinging') T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Stars and Stripes T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sun Spot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Super Crimp S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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W.P. T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wild-Eyed Southern Boys S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Zeus S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,352 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Westlake on May 18, 2014 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
A nice little diversion off the beaten path, this route follows a right-diagonaling finger crack up a vertical face and up a mellow (if lichenous) 5.3ish corner or slab.
From the ground it looks a bit more intimidating than it is but plentiful gear and bonus footholds keep it reasonable. There is a bit of excitement to be had puzzling out and committing to the sequence that takes you out of the crack and past the bulge that protects the easy slab. Maybe it's a 5.7 move? Not sure, but this is Moore's so I'm calling it a 5.6 - just don't forget there are more holds than the ones in/on the crack!
From the ground it looks a bit more intimidating than it is but plentiful gear and bonus footholds keep it reasonable. There is a bit of excitement to be had puzzling out and committing to the sequence that takes you out of the crack and past the bulge that protects the easy slab. Maybe it's a 5.7 move? Not sure, but this is Moore's so I'm calling it a 5.6 - just don't forget there are more holds than the ones in/on the crack!
Location
Found on the way to the Hanging Garden Gully.
From Sentinel Buttress area, hike right passing the Fire Wall and hike down a bit passing some green vertical to slightly overhanging chossy cliffs. Continue past a little tree-choked amphitheater until the trail slopes back up. Staying on this will put you at the base of the ledge about 10 feet up that you ascend to get into the gully (left and up). Shortly before you reach this ledge there is a slabby wall on the left broken by the aforementioned crack. This is the start of the route.
Follow the crack on the left side of the easy slab all the way to it's bushy conclusion and you will find a big tree slung with some static line and links. Single 60 will get you down with room to spare and/or belay from the ground.
From Sentinel Buttress area, hike right passing the Fire Wall and hike down a bit passing some green vertical to slightly overhanging chossy cliffs. Continue past a little tree-choked amphitheater until the trail slopes back up. Staying on this will put you at the base of the ledge about 10 feet up that you ascend to get into the gully (left and up). Shortly before you reach this ledge there is a slabby wall on the left broken by the aforementioned crack. This is the start of the route.
Follow the crack on the left side of the easy slab all the way to it's bushy conclusion and you will find a big tree slung with some static line and links. Single 60 will get you down with room to spare and/or belay from the ground.
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