Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Sean Barb, Nathan Brown
Page Views: 1,271 total · 11/month
Shared By: nbrown on Jan 29, 2009 with updates from gloomis Loomis
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

This route climbs the steepest part of the wall and it is quite a lot of fun. Traverse right out the large rail past some shallow cams to reach an obvious bomber camelot. Continue to traverse right past a hidden pin to gain a second rail and rock right onto the slab. Gear belay. Rap from tree on "Supercrimp".

Location

Located in the hanging garden. This climbs the huge "First in Flight" roof via the obvious left facing dihedral to the right of the climb "First in Flight".

Protection

Medium rack of cams. Gunk style (or Moores style) tied off friends work well in the first couple of shallow placements.

Photos

sean barb
winston salem, north carolina,
 
sean barb   winston salem, north carolina,
 
you'll likely experience a tad bit o' exposure once you pass the sloping rail. rigid stemmed friends are damn near necessary as flex cabled units would likely rip if you fell. this is one of those curious situations where the rigid stem 'levers' or 'pitons' to create reliable pro. Apr 30, 2009
Austin Goff
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11
Austin Goff   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11
Short but stout both mentally and physically. Even better exposure than its harder sibling, First in flight. This would be 4 star if it were 20+ feet longer. Of course, it would also be quite a bit harder. Follows almost an identical route line to First in Flight, just 10-15 feet lower on the roof. I wouldnt do it without rigid stems, they fit perfectly and the lever action is what makes the shallow placement feel "good enough". I would suggest some down climbing after placing the two hard stems and then firing through after a shake. Jul 30, 2018
Austin Goff
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11
Austin Goff   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11
Pin replaced October 8th. Oct 26, 2018 · Temporary Report