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Routes in Hanging Garden

Aries T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Armageddon T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Catnip S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Double Dare S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Double Ought T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Zues S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Enter The Void T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fight or Flight T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
First In Flight T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gnatty Pale T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Good, Bad, but not too Ugly. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hercules S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Howie's Hercules S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Lightning Thief T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Pooh Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Porters Pooh T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Primal Rage S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pygmalion S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Season in Hell S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Seth's Pooh (aka 'Come Out Swinging') T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Stars and Bars T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sun Spot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Crimp S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Whipping Post T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zeus S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Sean Barb, Nathan Brown
Page Views: 1,223 total · 10/month
Shared By: nbrown on Jan 29, 2009 with updates from gloomis Loomis
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This route climbs the steepest part of the wall and it is quite a lot of fun. Traverse right out the large rail past some shallow cams to reach an obvious bomber camelot. Continue to traverse right past a hidden pin to gain a second rail and rock right onto the slab. Gear belay. Rap from tree on "Supercrimp".

Location

Located in the hanging garden. This climbs the huge "First in Flight" roof via the obvious left facing dihedral to the right of the climb "First in Flight".

Protection

Medium rack of cams. Gunk style (or Moores style)tied off friends work good in the first couple of shallow placements.

Photos

sean barb
winston salem, north carolina,
 
sean barb   winston salem, north carolina,
 
you'll likely experience a tad bit o' exposure once you pass the sloping rail. rigid stemmed friends are damn near necessary as flex cabled units would likely rip if you fell. this is one of those curious situations where the rigid stem 'levers' or 'pitons' to create reliable pro. Apr 30, 2009
Austin Goff
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11
Austin Goff   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11
Short but stout both mentally and physically. Even better exposure than its harder sibling, First in flight. This would be 4 star if it were 20+ feet longer. Of course, it would also be quite a bit harder. Follows almost an identical route line to First in Flight, just 10-15 feet lower on the roof. I wouldnt do it without rigid stems, they fit perfectly and the lever action is what makes the shallow placement feel "good enough". I would suggest some down climbing after placing the two hard stems and then firing through after a shake. Jul 30, 2018

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