Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Seth Tart / Dennis Buice
Page Views: 440 total · 9/month
Shared By: S Tart on Sep 29, 2014
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route was a real 'diamond in the rough' to find, but it did demand a bit of serious cleaning before it gave up passage. It is one of the bigger roof climbs at Moores and should be sampled by anyone who is strong at the grade but like many Moores routes, it should not be taken too lightly.

Location

Climb onto the ledge that accesses the Zues Wall gully. Don't go up the gully but boulder up the black 4th class dihedral to another ledge 20' up. Step right for Whipping Post or walk up and left to the single tree for Enter The Void.

Start at the tree and follow a seam that is five feet left of the obvious corner. Follow it through edges and small gear to the base of a left leaning dihedral. Pull over the dihedral to the right and into a stance beneath the big roof. Pull through magnificent jugs and a super exposed exit to gain another good stance. The upper headwall is not too hard, not too soft but just right for a really nice finish to the same anchors as Whipping Post.

Protection

Standard Moores Wall rack. Cams above 2.5 are not necessary and some very small nuts are useful. You will also want 2 or 3, 1/2" and 3/4" cams and maybe one smaller if you have it.

Photos

Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
I TR'ed a variation on this a while back from the (now gone) Whipping Post bolts before Seth posted up his lead here. I ended up bailing near the roof because the edges were so sharp at that lip that I was afraid if I fell I'd slice my rope. I'm not sure if that would be so much a concern for the leader but perhaps a follower could face the issue. I think it probably depends on where you pull the roof - hard to tell if we were going through at the same place. I seem to recall walking up the dihedral mostly but it was dirty in spots so I meandered but that was cool climbing and looked like it took gear OK. Regardless, the position was really cool. Jul 9, 2018