Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Seth Tart / Dennis Buice
Page Views: 726 total · 10/month
Shared By: S Tart on Sep 29, 2014
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Potentially Closed Due to COVID-19 - Please check for closures before going and DO NOT TRESPASS! / 2020 Raptor Closures on the Nantahala-Pisgah LIFTED Details

Description

This route was a real 'diamond in the rough' to find, but it did demand a bit of serious cleaning before it gave up passage. It is one of the bigger roof climbs at Moores and should be sampled by anyone who is strong at the grade but like many Moores routes, it should not be taken too lightly.

Location

Climb onto the ledge that accesses the Zues Wall gully. Don't go up the gully but boulder up the black 4th class dihedral to another ledge 20' up. Step right for Whipping Post or walk up and left to the single tree for Enter The Void.

Start at the tree and follow a seam that is five feet left of the obvious corner. Follow it through edges and small gear to the base of a left leaning dihedral. Pull over the dihedral to the right and into a stance beneath the big roof. Pull through magnificent jugs and a super exposed exit to gain another good stance. The upper headwall is not too hard, not too soft but just right for a really nice finish to the same anchors as Whipping Post.

Protection

Standard Moores Wall rack. Cams above 2.5 are not necessary and some very small nuts are useful. You will also want 2 or 3, 1/2" and 3/4" cams and maybe one smaller if you have it.

Photos