Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Seth Tart
Page Views: 924 total · 13/month
Shared By: S Tart on Jun 25, 2013
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Since this route was first climbed, a new sequence has been found which lowers the grade to 12+ and makes the second crux considerably more esthetic. West coast climber, Thad Friday, unlocked the sequence by climbing out left to a block side pull before moving right onto the crimp ladder face.

Grunting and growling on incredible stone; a typical Zeus wall experience and this one does not disappoint. Climb up the blocky 20 foot start to a small perch, placing a couple pieces along the way just in case. A slip here would be a 150 feet down. Stick clip the first 2 bolts from the perch and fire a big, unnerving move to the lip of the roof. Get re-established, then work out left and power your way through the second crux. From here nice technical face climbing leads to a balancy finish at the anchors.

Location

Far left of Zeus wall just before turning the corner to Catnip, there is a roof/arĂȘte feature 20' up with 2 obvious bolts.

Protection

6 bolts, anchors, and a couple TCU's for the start

Photos

gloomis Loomis
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.12c
gloomis Loomis   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.12c
Great route! Very bouldery cruxes on perfect stone with wild exposure. Sep 6, 2014