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Routes in Hanging Garden

Aries T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Catnip S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Double Dare S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Double Ought T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Zues S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Enter The Void T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fight or Flight T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
First In Flight T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gnatty Pale T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Good, Bad, but not too Ugly. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hercules S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Lightning Thief T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Pooh Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Porters Pooh T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Primal Rage S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pygmalion S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Season in Hell S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Seth's Pooh (aka 'Come Out Swinging') T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Stars and Bars T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sun Spot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Crimp S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Whipping Post T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zeus S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Seth Tart
Page Views: 794 total · 14/month
Shared By: S Tart on Jun 25, 2013
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Since this route was first climbed, a new sequence has been found which lowers the grade to 12+ and makes the second crux considerably more esthetic. West coast climber, Thad Friday, unlocked the sequence by climbing out left to a block side pull before moving right onto the crimp ladder face.

Grunting and growling on incredible stone; a typical Zeus wall experience and this one does not disappoint. Climb up the blocky 20 foot start to a small perch, placing a couple pieces along the way just in case. A slip here would be a 150 feet down. Stick clip the first 2 bolts from the perch and fire a big, unnerving move to the lip of the roof. Get re-established, then work out left and power your way through the second crux. From here nice technical face climbing leads to a balancy finish at the anchors.

Location

Far left of Zeus wall just before turning the corner to Catnip, there is a roof/arĂȘte feature 20' up with 2 obvious bolts.

Protection

6 bolts, anchors, and a couple TCU's for the start

Photos

gloomis
  5.12c
gloomis  
  5.12c
Great route! Very bouldery cruxes on perfect stone with wild exposure. Sep 6, 2014

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