Primal Rage
5.12+ YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Early Access
| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 36.39624, -80.28668 |
| FA: | Seth Tart |
| Page Views: | 2,122 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | S Tart on Jun 25, 2013 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Description
Since this route was first climbed, a new sequence has been found which lowers the grade to 12+ and makes the second crux considerably more esthetic. West coast climber, Thad Friday, unlocked the sequence by climbing out left to a block side pull before moving right onto the crimp ladder face.
Grunting and growling on incredible stone; a typical Zeus wall experience and this one does not disappoint. Climb up the blocky 20 foot start to a small perch, placing a couple pieces along the way just in case. A slip here would be a 150 feet down. Stick clip the first 2 bolts from the perch and fire a big, unnerving move to the lip of the roof. Get re-established, then work out left and power your way through the second crux. From here nice technical face climbing leads to a balancy finish at the anchors.



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