Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Hanging Garden

Aries T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Catnip S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Double Dare S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Double Ought T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Zues S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Enter The Void T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fight or Flight T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
First In Flight T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gnatty Pale T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Good, Bad, but not too Ugly. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hercules S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Lightning Thief T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Pooh Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Porters Pooh T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Primal Rage S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pygmalion S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Season in Hell S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Seth's Pooh (aka 'Come Out Swinging') T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Stars and Bars T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sun Spot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Crimp S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Whipping Post T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zeus S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Steve Orthel and Frank Orthel
Page Views: 802 total, 14/month
Shared By: Matt Westlake on Apr 8, 2013
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A bit thin and sustained for a newer 5.8 leader, but no stopper moves. Make sure you have enough small gear and climb carefully.

Start on a shallow corner angling up and left (it looks more difficult than it is). A very small nut can be used to protect the opening move.

Carefully work the shelf-like holds and occasional cracks, placing such pro as you can. Sling a nice rock horn and continue up, rock left, and work through the lightly overhanging but not outrageous face climbing above, negotiate a tricky small roof (probably the crux) and onto easier ground. Diagonal up and right into a short traverse to a weakness in the larger roof, slinging long through here.

Finagle some sub-optimal gear and crank through the juggy roof at the first slot anyway, savoring the exposure. Not quite as glorious as the Zoo View roof move, but pretty good.

Romp up and right to find a rap station slung around a large boulder under the final monster roof where First In Flight and Super Crimp begin.

Location

On the left side of the face above the steep ascent gully that leads to the Hanging Garden.

Hike up the gully. Leave most of your stuff at the bottom. The base of the route is in a small flat area before a large tree just past the most difficult part of the gully (an exposed 5.1-ish move over a large block).

Protection

Lots of small gear, nothing larger than #1 C4. RPs may be helpful here and there.

Consider anchoring the belayer to the large tree up slope a little since the first moves are a little thin with small pro and a fall could take both on a fatal tumble.


Descent
A single 70m can rap directly from the boulder station into the gully (just below the hard move in gully). I think a 60m might work if you angle back up the gully - if not you can do another rap off the Hodadical Master anchor midway up the face which have been recently updated with new rings.

Alternately, go left and rap down into the Hanging Garden and hike back down the ascent gully.

Photos

Austin Goff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Austin Goff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
A high quality romp that would be as popular as the circus area routes if not for the location. Location/exposure is great, just out of the way. Jun 7, 2017
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.8
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.8
Great route. The rappel from the block is the way to go as a 60 meter gets you directly to the base of the climb without the need to angle up the gully. Sep 25, 2016