Hanging Garden Rock Climbing
|GPS:||36.396, -80.287 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||16,607 total · 217/month|
|Shared By:||Ryan Williams on Nov 3, 2011|
|Admins:||Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
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DescriptionThis is one of the coolest places you will ever climb. It is perched high above the trail, at the top of Moore's Wall. The view is amazing and the exposure will get your heart pumping. It took me three trips to the Garden before I got the balls to climb anything!
The Hanging Garden has the highest concentration of hard climbing at Moore's. There are a handful of hard traditional routes up here with a few high end sport climbs mixed in. The rock quality is amazing, and the movement is even better. Every time I climb here, I come away saying "I can't believe that route goes on gear." Believe me when I say that these routes, while safe, would have been bolted if they were in any other part of the country. Leave it to the good old southern boys to keep their ethics in the face of hard, steep, and intimidating climbing.
The angle of the wall keeps it in the shade, and because it sits 150 feet above the base of the main wall, it stays cool most of the time.
Getting ThereOnce you've taken the left onto the powerline road, walk for a few minutes until you see a park sign on the right pointing to the Sentinel Buttress trail. Turn right and head up the trail, following signs for the Sentinel Buttress. Once you get close to the wall, the trail splits and either heads left toward the Central Wall or right toward the Sentinel Buttress. Go right, and walk past the Sentinel Buttress and then past the Fire Wall. Continue for 100 yards and look for a 4th class (steep and vegetated) gully that leads up to the big overhang that creates Pooh Corner. The Thomas Kelly book says "if you pass a large block with an orange and white face, you've gone a little too far."
Alternatively, climb Midlife Crisis to the rappel tree on the left side of the Garden. This is a great warm up, and the best way to access the goods that hang over you.
Classic Climbing Routes at Hanging Garden
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season