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Hanging Garden Rock Climbing
Routes in Hanging Garden
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Aries T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Armageddon T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Catnip S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Double Dare S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Double Ought T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Double Zeus S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Enter The Void T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fight or Flight T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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First In Flight T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gnatty Pale T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Good, Bad, but not too Ugly. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hercules S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Hodadical Master T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Lightning Thief T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Pooh Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Porters Pooh T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Primal Rage S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Pygmalion S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Season in Hell S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Seth's Pooh (aka 'Come Out Swinging') T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Stars and Stripes T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sun Spot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Super Crimp S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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W.P. T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Zeus S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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| Elevation: | 2,406 ft |
| GPS: |
36.39624, -80.28668 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 49,547 total · 351/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan Williams on Nov 3, 2011 |
| Admins: | Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry |
Description
This is one of the coolest places you will ever climb. It is perched high above the trail, at the top of Moore's Wall. The view is amazing and the exposure will get your heart pumping. It took me three trips to the Garden before I got the balls to climb anything!
The Hanging Garden has the highest concentration of hard climbing at Moore's. There are a handful of hard traditional routes up here with a few high end sport climbs mixed in. The rock quality is amazing, and the movement is even better. Every time I climb here, I come away saying "I can't believe that route goes on gear." Believe me when I say that these routes, while safe, would have been bolted if they were in any other part of the country. Leave it to the good old southern boys to keep their ethics in the face of hard, steep, and intimidating climbing.
The angle of the wall keeps it in the shade, and because it sits 150 feet above the base of the main wall, it stays cool most of the time.
The Hanging Garden has the highest concentration of hard climbing at Moore's. There are a handful of hard traditional routes up here with a few high end sport climbs mixed in. The rock quality is amazing, and the movement is even better. Every time I climb here, I come away saying "I can't believe that route goes on gear." Believe me when I say that these routes, while safe, would have been bolted if they were in any other part of the country. Leave it to the good old southern boys to keep their ethics in the face of hard, steep, and intimidating climbing.
The angle of the wall keeps it in the shade, and because it sits 150 feet above the base of the main wall, it stays cool most of the time.
Getting There
Once you've taken the left onto the powerline road, walk for a few minutes until you see a park sign on the right pointing to the Sentinel Buttress trail. Turn right and head up the trail, following signs for the Sentinel Buttress. Once you get close to the wall, the trail splits and either heads left toward the Central Wall or right toward the Sentinel Buttress. Go right, and walk past the Sentinel Buttress and then past the Fire Wall. Continue for 100 yards and look for a 4th class (steep and vegetated) gully that leads up to the big overhang that creates Pooh Corner. The Thomas Kelly book says "if you pass a large block with an orange and white face, you've gone a little too far."
Alternatively, climb Midlife Crisis to the rappel tree on the left side of the Garden. This is a great warm up, and the best way to access the goods that hang over you.
Alternatively, climb Midlife Crisis to the rappel tree on the left side of the Garden. This is a great warm up, and the best way to access the goods that hang over you.
Classic Climbing Routes at Hanging Garden
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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