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Routes in Hanging Garden

Aries T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Armageddon T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Catnip S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Double Dare S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Double Ought T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Zues S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Enter The Void T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fight or Flight T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
First In Flight T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gnatty Pale T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Good, Bad, but not too Ugly. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hercules S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Howie's Hercules S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Lightning Thief T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Pooh Corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Porters Pooh T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Primal Rage S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pygmalion S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Season in Hell S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Seth's Pooh (aka 'Come Out Swinging') T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Stars and Bars T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sun Spot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Crimp S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Whipping Post T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zeus S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
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Description

This is one of the coolest places you will ever climb. It is perched high above the trail, at the top of Moore's Wall. The view is amazing and the exposure will get your heart pumping. It took me three trips to the Garden before I got the balls to climb anything!

The Hanging Garden has the highest concentration of hard climbing at Moore's. There are a handful of hard traditional routes up here with a few high end sport climbs mixed in. The rock quality is amazing, and the movement is even better. Every time I climb here, I come away saying "I can't believe that route goes on gear." Believe me when I say that these routes, while safe, would have been bolted if they were in any other part of the country. Leave it to the good old southern boys to keep their ethics in the face of hard, steep, and intimidating climbing.

The angle of the wall keeps it in the shade, and because it sits 150 feet above the base of the main wall, it stays cool most of the time.

Getting There

Once you've taken the left onto the powerline road, walk for a few minutes until you see a park sign on the right pointing to the Sentinel Buttress trail. Turn right and head up the trail, following signs for the Sentinel Buttress. Once you get close to the wall, the trail splits and either heads left toward the Central Wall or right toward the Sentinel Buttress. Go right, and walk past the Sentinel Buttress and then past the Fire Wall. Continue for 100 yards and look for a 4th class (steep and vegetated) gully that leads up to the big overhang that creates Pooh Corner. The Thomas Kelly book says "if you pass a large block with an orange and white face, you've gone a little too far."

Alternatively, climb Midlife Crisis to the rappel tree on the left side of the Garden. This is a great warm up, and the best way to access the goods that hang over you.

25 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hanging Garden

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 14
Double Ought
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
Whipping Post
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 27
Pooh Corner
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
Fight or Flight
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
Porters Pooh
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 10
First In Flight
Trad, Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 12
Stars and Bars
Trad, Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 7
Aries
Trad
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 3
Primal Rage
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 7
Pygmalion
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 8
Double Dare
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 7
Zeus
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 3
Season in Hell
Sport
5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
 3
Hercules
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Double Ought
 14
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Whipping Post
 10
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Pooh Corner
 27
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Fight or Flight
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Porters Pooh
 10
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
First In Flight
 10
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
Stars and Bars
 12
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad, Sport
Aries
 7
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
Primal Rage
 3
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
Pygmalion
 7
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Double Dare
 8
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Zeus
 7
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Season in Hell
 3
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Hercules
 3
5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Hanging Garden »

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