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Harmony Dihedrals
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 26
votes
Early Access
Routes in Sunday Wall
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2-fer T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Antlers on a Sunday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Arch Traverse S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bandito T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Beginner's Luck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Black Dynamite T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bridge of Air T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Burnt Beautician T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cacophony Corners T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Catch a Wave S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Chop Saw T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dark Winter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Deadname King T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dike Arch T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dike Pinch T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Don Juan T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dreaming of Eagles T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dreams of Far Away Places T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dusty Bottoms T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Echoes T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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El Guapo T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Fart Gun S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fearless First T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gargoyle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Grample Humf, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Harmony Dihedrals T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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High Exposure T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Monkey Gone to Heaven S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Motion Fascination T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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My Little Buttercup T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Napa Arete T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Napa Valley T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Optical Illusions S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Overlap T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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People are Poodles, Too T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pillar 1 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Pillar 2a T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Porticullis S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Prickly Pear T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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R-Tree It T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Red Hangers T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Right of Trash Can Alley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Second Pillar S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Silently Indirect T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Simple Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Single Bolt Seam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Smear Campaign T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Smooth Reach T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Standard Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Steeple, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sun Dancer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sundae Driver T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sweet Sunday Serenade T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Three's Company T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tippy Toes S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tree It T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Undocumented (Left of Bandito) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unhallowed T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Unknown Arete T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown Pillar T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown Reach T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 |
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Upper Deck 0.5 T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Upper Deck 1 T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C0 |
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Upper Deck 2 T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Wave, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 375 ft (114 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.81832, -108.60765 |
| FA: | P1: unknown. P2-4: Fritz, 11/17/18 |
| Page Views: | 3,591 total · 37/month |
| Shared By: | F r i t z on Nov 17, 2018 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, N R, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This is right of Unknown Pillar and left of SSS by about a hundred yards apiece.
P1. Chimney forty feet to the top of the pillar past some tat (5.7). Bust left and clip three bolts on tricky face through a short, shallow right-facing dihedral (5.10-). Head left at the big ledge to belay at a rap station, or continue up a short left-facing dihedral to a smaller ledge and belay on thin gear at the base of a left-facing tips corner. 100 or 120 feet. These pitches were previously established; ratings are guesstimates on my part.
P2. Stem and jam the beautiful, short thin-fingers dihedral (5.10-), then angle up and left on a diagonal, pegmatite groove (5.9), clipping a bolt and placing a blue or yellow Metolius. One more bolt leads to an airy step left across the peg groove onto some bulletproof slab. Wander up easy slab past a rap anchor to belay at the base of the large right-facing dihedral. 100 feet.
P3. This is the money pitch: stellar jamming of all sizes up a right-facing dihedral with jugs and footholds aplenty (5.9-). It is very three-dimensional, blue-collar climbing on great stone. Work your way through or around a short chimney, and then mantel to a bolted stance. 100 feet.
P4. Wander up the path of least resistance for twenty feet (5.8), then take a hard left, traversing until you get to a puzzling roof in a right-facing dihedral. (Pulling the roof before the corner is R-rated; stay hard left to have pro). Find the elusive hold that keeps it 5.9 and pull the roof. Then exhaust your list of expletives on an unbelievably awkward (=fun) bombay chimney (5.8) to more low-angle terrain, and finish with some feel-good stemming to the rap anchor. 90 feet.
P4 wide-free alternate finish courtesy of Skyeler: Cacophany Corners
Rap 1: single 60m off two bolts to an alcove.
Rap 2: single 60m past a mega ledge to another big ledge. Look fifteen feet to the climber's left for two bolts with rap rings.
Rap 3: single 60m to a station with one bolt and two fixed nuts.
Rap 4: single 60m to the ground.
Location
About a hundred yards before Sweet Sunday Serenade on the main trail and just right of Unknown Pillar, locate a large cairn leading to a cleft with a 5.7 chimney in the back.
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