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Routes in Land that Time Forgot

Anasazi Arete (Peter Hubbel Memorial) S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ankar Gate S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Sheep T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Cloak of the Wolf S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
I Love a Cigar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jacob's Ladder S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Knossos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Labyrinth T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Minoan Maze S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nazca Line S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
North Buttress of Acid Rock S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Oklahoma Princess T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over the Hills and Far Away T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Practislab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Riders in the Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Shadows on the Rock S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Solarian T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Temple 19 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 330 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Chuck Fitch and Adam Huxley
Page Views: 120 total · 92/month
Shared By: C Fitch on Jul 12, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

You might notice the bolts on the first pitch as you are approaching Anasazi Arete which is about 200 feet to the left.

Pitch 1. 5.10+. Start just left of a deep gully. The crux climbing is past a high first bolt to easier climbing, 100 feet, 6 bolts, a #3 Camalot (for the flake near the top), a #0 Metolius, a small wire before the first bolt, and a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 2. 5.10-. Our original line followed the line of least resistance to the right on crumbling rock, 5.8. We have reworked the pitch to climb directly on high quality rock to the second pitch anchors, 100 feet, 11 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. We left the original bolts but took the hangers.

Pitch 3. 5.9. Climb up and left on moderate face to a steep headwall. From here, you could climb to the right on an easy 5th Class ramp that takes you to the shoulder were the south face routes of Baby Helen's end. Instead, climb offwidth and hand crack to anchors, 80 feet, 5 bolts, a #1 and #3 Camalot, and a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 4. 5.11. Climb low angle slab to a left-arching crack. We found ancient bail gear at the bottom of the arching crack. We climbed the arching crack to the prominent corner above. We placed a bolt next to a giant loose block and retreated due to crumbling rock above, 50 feet to our last bolt.

Location

This is on the north face of Baby Helen's Dome.

Protection

11 quickdraws, a light rack, and something for the anchors.

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