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Routes in Land that Time Forgot

Ankar Gate S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Sheep T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Cloak of the Wolf S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
I Love a Cigar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jacob's Ladder S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Knossos S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Minoan Maze S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nazca Line S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Oklahoma Princess T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over the Hills and Far Away T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Practislab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Riders in the Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Solarian T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Temple 19 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 4 pitches
FA: Bill Schmausser & Andy Kovats
Page Views: 2,541 total, 19/month
Shared By: Bill Schmausser on Mar 2, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

4 very long pitches, sometimes climbed in 5 by breaking P1 in two.

Pitches (as 4): P1 5.9 14 bolts, P2 5.7 bolts, P3 5.10cR, modest traverse left (the 'R') to two bolts through the crux to a belay. [The R is 5.7, 10.c has good pro], P4 5.10b, bolts to the summit.

Don't let the R scare you away, this, like many of the routes up here, is a superb climb and accessible to any mid 5.10 slab aficionado. All belays have 1/2" bolts. Some people have suggested adding another bolt, and I could do that.

Descent: Raps: 1) rap P4, 2) rap to a station 100 feet down and 70 feet left ot the top of P2, 3) rap to top of I Love a Cigar pitch 1, straight down, 4) rap to ground.

Protection

Bolts. A few small cams for some runouts.

2 x 60m for descent.
nicolas blair
Denver, CO
 
nicolas blair   Denver, CO
 
P1. HARD 5.9, come on now, this pitch is way harder than the third pitch! No warm-up here, a bit run out, but fantastic to say the least.

P2. Eased up a bit, 5.8.

P3. Not really anymore run out than the rest of the climb. I found this pitch very exciting and exposed. The runout section (last 4th and 3rd bolt) pretty straightforward. It would have resulted in a decently big swing/fall, but it's safe.

P4. Great line to finish the route! Great exposure. 10a.

Descent: we had no problem here. Used the ENTIRE length of two 70m ropes to get from the bottom of rap 2 to the ground (therefore eliminating the 4th rap).

4 stars, one of the best climbs near the metro area. Aug 7, 2017
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Cindy, the route between RITS and Knossos is actually the start of Minoan Maze. They cross at the ledge. I didn't draw it in my picture topo, but there is one of Pete's original topos on the main page. Aug 21, 2013
Cindy Mitchell
  5.10c/d R
Cindy Mitchell  
  5.10c/d R
Brilliant line. Pitch 2 was incredibly enjoyable.
The start is left of the water streaked, shallow gully. There is a route between Knossos and Riders in the Sky not listed here, so this line is 2 bolt lines left of Knossos. Aug 20, 2013
This is a really fun route and is definitely worth doing. I'd say the first pitch is maybe 10a with sort of a meandering line towards the end. You can sling a tree have way up for additional pro. The second pitch is similar, starts out 5.9+/10a, then eases off a bit to the chains. The third pitch is the business; 5.9 past 4 bolts, then a 10a move left to clip the last bolt before a 20' 5.7 run out traverse up and left. The last move before clipping the 'thank god bolt' is quite exciting, a little mantle type move on a good shelf. From there, it's harder but the pro is right there. Scratch your way up past a few more bolts to the chains. The last pitch is probably technically the second hardest, but for only a move or two at ~10b or so on sharp fingertip holds.

The lack of a bolt along the traverse really sets this route apart from most sport routes and is definitely good for the 'head shape' factor. I wish there were more routes like this - keep it as-is. Sep 5, 2010
rob bauer
Golden, CO
  5.10c PG13
rob bauer   Golden, CO
  5.10c PG13
A couple of my friends (without computer access) climbed this a few weeks ago and said don't add another bolt to the traverse, it wasn't needed. Neither claim to be slab masters, so I'd take that as a very reasonable suggestion that it isn't necessary; maybe a little spicy, but not dangerous. Sep 18, 2007
rob bauer
Golden, CO
  5.10c PG13
rob bauer   Golden, CO
  5.10c PG13
Only climbed the first pitch and it was great. Not overly bolted but not scary either. Jul 30, 2007
Bill Schmausser
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Schmausser   Colorado Springs, CO
Admins --FA Bill Schmausser/Andy Kovats. Please associate my account to the FA so I can edit.

Thanks May 30, 2007