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Routes in Land that Time Forgot

Ankar Gate S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Sheep T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Cloak of the Wolf S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
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Jacob's Ladder S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
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Minoan Maze S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nazca Line S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Oklahoma Princess T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over the Hills and Far Away T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Practislab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Riders in the Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Solarian T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Temple 19 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 3 pitches
FA: Hubbel
Page Views: 1,139 total, 9/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Mar 2, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

Hike past the tiered bivy spot on the far left side up to a ledge system. The route follows the face formed by the large gully under the "neck" of Sheeprock.

P1: There are two variations. The right is harder. Face climb near the edge of the right facing corner, until you have to traverse out over the roof, right. Ginish on a rounded arete.

P2: Excellent. This has exposed and wandering face climbing. The belay ledge is a little rotten and a large spooky block looms.

P3: This has sustained face and edges close to the huge, right-facing dihedral. Belay at the base of a dihedral.

You can escape right across bolted 5th class traverse to the saddle, or rap.

Protection

QDs only, two ropes for raps.

Photos

Luke Clarke
Golden
 
Luke Clarke   Golden
 
Excellent route. Carried 18 draws and used them all on p2 and nearly all on other pitches. You could easily back clean at a few places, but if you want to avoid that, take 18. They all are about 170-180 feet long. The route feels amazingly consistent at the grade with only a few full blown rests. Aug 5, 2012
slim

  5.11-
slim    
  5.11-
I thought the left hand of the first pitch variations was slightly harder. In either case, the first pitch is the crux, but well-protected.

The second pitch, in my opinion, is the best pitch of 5.9 face in the Platte. I would say that it is the equivalent of the 2nd pitch of the Center Route on Cyn Pin. This pitch is long, sustained, well-protected, on amazing rock with a climactic end.

The third pitch has a very different feel. It is still excellent, but the style is totally different.

This is a terrific route. Mar 3, 2007