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Routes in Land that Time Forgot

Ankar Gate S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Sheep T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Cloak of the Wolf S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
I Love a Cigar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jacob's Ladder S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Knossos S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Minoan Maze S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nazca Line S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Oklahoma Princess T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over the Hills and Far Away T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Practislab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Riders in the Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Solarian T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Temple 19 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Bill Schmausser, Andy Kovats
Page Views: 1,030 total · 8/month
Shared By: Bill Schmausser on May 30, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Most parties do the first three bolted pitches (10+,10b,10b), which are fantastic, rapping station to station before the crux roof fist crack on the fourth pitch. If you are inclined to take several #4-5 cams up here, it's fun to go all the way up. 5th pitch checks in at 10b, all draws.
Rap Riders.

Location

Start up the face on a very large flake leaning against the wall, almost in the center of the main wall. It is about 70-80 feet left of Riders in the Sky.

Protection

Pitches 1-3: 14 draws. Pitch 4: gear to 5 inches. 2 60m ropes are necessary for the descent raps.

Photos

SammyJ
Colorado springs
SammyJ   Colorado springs
P1 is longer than 100'. A 70m will barely get your partner back to the high belay ledge if setting up a TR. Jul 10, 2017
rob bauer
Golden, CO
 
rob bauer   Golden, CO
 
This route starts ONLY 35 feet left of Riders in the Sky. (70-80 feet puts you on Bill's Route [project, according to photo]. So, it's maybe instructive to read my tale.

I started up Bill's Route by mistake. (I didn't even look for another line of bolts, just started 80 feet left of Riders in the Sky.) Did the first 2 pitches: P1 only 100', P2 was <100'. From there I confirmed my mistake and clipped a bolt or 2 (bolt line heads left) and traversed right via an airy hand ledge to the correct prow. I did clip an old 1/4" bolt on the way and the last bolt to the anchors at the top of P2 on I'd Love a Cigar, 75'. Did the correct P3, which is nice. On P4 there's 1 bolt on the way to the hand/fist/ow crack in the roof. A #3 Camalot would be perfect (not that I had one; 4 Friend poorly/barely fits from below). I flailed. Long sleeves may have helped, but I needed a ladder. I think a foot hold has broken off at the lip down left of the crack, and one seems to be broken under the roof, but I just couldn't do it. (I'm not claiming it's a sandbag, 11a is about my limit, and this one was too awkward for me; I'm 5'8" if it matters.) So, I traversed left to Jacob's Ladder and had no problem with that, maybe 10c/d? with lots of bolts. You end up at the same belay, right over that crack in the roof. (I don't remember any rope drag.) I belayed my partner with the trail line to minimize the pendulum risk. It's a short pitch if you can do the roof. [Next time I might look into that U-shaped gully directly above the belay, right of the crack; looks like a #3 Camalot would go at the base and a few stems would get you back into balance, but I forgot to scope it out on the way down. It would need cleaning.] Anyhow, the last pitch is 10b as advertised. (We did P1 afterwards and topped out in the rain, 110'.) Aug 6, 2007
bw 4257  
Just to clarify, to continue above p3 you only need 2 or 3 cams and not a whole rack up to 5". I placed a #3 at the lip of the roof and a #5 a bit above, otherwise it's all bolts. Jul 16, 2007

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