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Routes in Land that Time Forgot

Ankar Gate S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Sheep T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Cloak of the Wolf S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
I Love a Cigar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jacob's Ladder S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Knossos S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Minoan Maze S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nazca Line S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Oklahoma Princess T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over the Hills and Far Away T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Practislab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Riders in the Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Solarian T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Temple 19 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: D. Mabe ,10/05, FFA: C. Scarpella / D.Montgomery, 10/14!
Page Views: 3,341 total, 29/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Jun 30, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is THE Sheeprock testpiece. The Cloak is a well-protected line following the most direct and some of the steepest features to the summit of Sheeprock. The last pitch cuts right through center of the headwall. This also provides the only rap line down the North Face from the summit.

Start on the far left side of the North side, at the bivy site. 4th class 30' to the cozy perch.

P1: "Gateway". 10+. This pitch also provides access to trad routes SolArian and Black Sheep. Slab and sequential face climbing warm-up. Pass a chain anchor at 100 feet and continue on easier ledgy climbing to an excellent 3 bolt belay ledge. 170' 16 bolts. Use a few long runners in spots.

P2: "Black Sheep" dihedral. 11+. Insecure step into the right facing dihedral and tricky crux pulling around at the 3rd bolt. This sets the stage and establishes you onto the Cloak. Once around the corner, finish on easier slab and face to an exposed and uncomfortable hanging 3 bolt belay. 65' 8 bolts.

P3: Roof Pitch. 12+?. Tighten up your shoes. Sustained steep edging and smears separated by 2 roofs. The first and smaller of the two being an improbable balance boulder problem at, say, V5. Once over the roof, sequential face climbing follows a leaning rounded arete to near-impossible friction slab below a five-foot roof. Paw your way over this powerful roof and enjoy a comfortable tiered 3 bolt belay. Probably the biggest challenge on this relentless pitch is keeping your concentration sharp and your calves from burning! Be smart with some longer draws/runners as the route wanders a bit. 115', 16 bolts.

P4: Headwall. 12. Soak up the exposure. This follows an unbelievable natural weakness in an otherwise impasse. Follow the first few clips on big holds to a ledge rest. Continue on steep and vertical sustained face climbing with small knobs, edges, and sloping stances to where the angle finally breaks. The crux is about midway with a reachy sequence of crimps. Chase several more clips on 5.10 to a great ledge 30' below the summit. 125', 16 bolts.

P5: 5th class (optional) cruise past two bolts to summit anchors and enjoy the view. 30'. Congratulations.

Rap the route with two 60m ropes (3 raps). Best rap is from stations 4 to 3, 3 to 1, 1 to Perch. Although its possible with 2 x 70s to stretch the rap from 4 to 2, and 2 to Perch (although pulling ropes is more of a workout this way).

Location

This is on the far left side of Land Time Forgot, between T19 and Ankar Gate.

rack

About 16 quickdraws of various lengths including a few runners.
XSGrip or Onyx shoe rubber. ;)
2 x 60m ropes to rap.

Also good idea to bring some comfy shoes to belay in, especially at the hanging belay at the end of P2.
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
My buddy Cody and I managed a team send of the Cloak today (FFA?). He styled the roofs pitch (HARD!), and I managed to onsight the headwall. I gotta say that headwall pitch has got to be one of the best face pitches in the Platte, unbelievable feature! Thanks for all of your time and effort on this thing, Darren, it is truly a special route!

A few notes on the route:
It is possible to get off with a single 70m (we did), the only pitch that involves any extendo rappel shenanigans is rappelling off of the headwall pitch. All of the other pitches have room to spare.

The hanging belay on top of P2 would be really uncomfortable if you were trying work the crux pitch, so it is not a bad idea to rig up some kind of mini-ledge to hang off of the anchor.
Oct 19, 2014
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Dani, great to hear from you! Can't part with the Cloudveil, it's falling apart, but it's almost 10 years old! Aug 4, 2008
alon  
Awesome route, awesome place, great exposure, too much fun. would be really hard to onsight. Kudos to Darren for the really hard work.
Dude, give a rest to the Cloudveil Jacket, hang it on the wall of the livingroom or something,
Dani from the other Hemisphere Aug 3, 2008