Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches
FA: Mabe / Hubbel, 2004
Page Views: 6,974 total · 41/month
Shared By: Wiled Horse on Jun 30, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

Solarian is identified by the striking, sunlit, dihedral system on the left side of the north face of Sheeprock. This route features face climbing, layback corners, a 100', diagonaling, finger crack traverse, and great exposure for only 3 pitches. This is one of few trad routes on Sheeprock.

Begin as for Cloak of the Wolf, on the Perch above the bivy spot on the left side of Land that Time Forgot.

P1: 5.10+, 150', shares the first pitch of the Cloak. 16 bolts, 3 bolt belay on a grassy belay ledge.

P2: 5.10, 105' classic. Lieback up the arching, right-facing dihedral (5.9) to a steep, cruxy step left into the main dihedral, protected by a bolt. Jam through a weakness in a roof above a spooky, hollow flake to a 3-bolt, hanging belay. Be mindful of rope drag. (you cannot retreat after this point).

P3: 5.10+, 150' excellent and memorable. Continue up the finger crack above the belay to join a dihedral and A-frame roof. Pull around the roof, 5.10+, (strangely reminiscent of Fat City crack in Lumpy) where a tight, finger crack splits to the right. This is the crux of the entire route. CAUTION: be sure to place pro for your follower, the roof edge is sharp! Dance the sustained rising finger crack traverse (5.9) for about 100' to a comfortable sunny belay ledge with two bolts/gear (and a great place to take a pic of your follower!). This pitch gobbles up nuts and small cams.

P4: traverse the ledge right for about 20' to rap anchors where you escape by rapping 70' to the top of Ankar Gate, or rap/traverse to the saddle and have a picnic. If you still want to summit, climb Velcro Wall via Acid Crack, 5.5, (classic!) and a hundred feet of 3rd Class slabs to the top.

There are a few options to get down. From the summit, rap Cloak of the Wolf. From the saddle, rap Jacobs Ladder or Ankar Gate. Bring 2 x 60m ropes for raps.

Location

This is on the left side. See the topo.

Protection

Stoppers, TCUs, doubles of #0.5, #0.75, and #1 Camalots. EDIT: one #2 and one #3 are optional. Bring 2 x 60m ropes.

Photos