Avg: 3.8 from 26 votes
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches|
|FA:||Mabe / Hubbel, 2004|
|Page Views:||6,974 total · 41/month|
|Shared By:||Wiled Horse on Jun 30, 2008|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Begin as for Cloak of the Wolf, on the Perch above the bivy spot on the left side of Land that Time Forgot.
P1: 5.10+, 150', shares the first pitch of the Cloak. 16 bolts, 3 bolt belay on a grassy belay ledge.
P2: 5.10, 105' classic. Lieback up the arching, right-facing dihedral (5.9) to a steep, cruxy step left into the main dihedral, protected by a bolt. Jam through a weakness in a roof above a spooky, hollow flake to a 3-bolt, hanging belay. Be mindful of rope drag. (you cannot retreat after this point).
P3: 5.10+, 150' excellent and memorable. Continue up the finger crack above the belay to join a dihedral and A-frame roof. Pull around the roof, 5.10+, (strangely reminiscent of Fat City crack in Lumpy) where a tight, finger crack splits to the right. This is the crux of the entire route. CAUTION: be sure to place pro for your follower, the roof edge is sharp! Dance the sustained rising finger crack traverse (5.9) for about 100' to a comfortable sunny belay ledge with two bolts/gear (and a great place to take a pic of your follower!). This pitch gobbles up nuts and small cams.
P4: traverse the ledge right for about 20' to rap anchors where you escape by rapping 70' to the top of Ankar Gate, or rap/traverse to the saddle and have a picnic. If you still want to summit, climb Velcro Wall via Acid Crack, 5.5, (classic!) and a hundred feet of 3rd Class slabs to the top.
There are a few options to get down. From the summit, rap Cloak of the Wolf. From the saddle, rap Jacobs Ladder or Ankar Gate. Bring 2 x 60m ropes for raps.