Type: Sport, 225 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Hubbel, Traufield, Mabe, Miller. FFA: Mabe/Miller June 2018
Page Views: 1,715 total · 94/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Jun 11, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Historical Background and Route Description

The Anasazi Arete was originally envisioned by Peter Hubbel and CT Traufield in the early 2000s. This is the striking arete/roof feature on the right side of the Land That Time Forgot that catches your eye as you gaze at Sheeprock.

Pete and CT established an approach pitch from the North side, downhill from Oklahoma Princess, (5.9, 35m). The 2002 Haymen fire changed much of the landscape, and the base and original start was no exception. Their highpoint was about halfway up the next pitch.

Many years after Pete's death, I was inspired to finish the route, and I teamed up with Greg Miller to establish a personal memorial for my friend and mentor. Peter left this world in the Fall of 2012.

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For the FFA, in keeping with the local adventurous spirit of link-ups, Anasazi was approached by climbing Sweet Cigarillo (5.8) as a warm-up, followed by a brisk 10 minute hike around to a secret passage. Scramble down the passage to access the anchors of the original first pitch. This link makes for over 400 feet of climbing, needing only quickdraws and one rope, folks.

Pitch 1: from the bolted belay inside the secret passage, climb to a brilliant foot traverse along a dike intrusion followed by sustained slab smearing up to a stance rest. Continue with steep tips layback flake to a rock-star crux sequence moving left to the edge. Use extreme caution under the precarious "Jawbone" flake as you scamper to the belay, 110 feet, 5.10, 15 bolts.

Pitch 2: continue above the belay left of crack. Traverse to the sand pit rest stance, and beeline for the arete (crux). Surmount the arete, soak up the exposure, and enjoy the ride to the belay, 105 feet, 5.10, 11 bolts.

The route ends on a nice ledge perch, a fitting spot to hang out and reflect. Pete would have loved it up there.

Location

AA is the obvious Arete/roof on the NW flanks of Sheeprock, beginning above the smoking sections and ending below the dirty gully/poop-chute that connects with left side of Acid Rock.

Protection

15 draws and a 70m rope.

Photos