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Routes in Land that Time Forgot

Ankar Gate S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Sheep T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Cloak of the Wolf S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
I Love a Cigar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jacob's Ladder S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Knossos S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Minoan Maze S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nazca Line S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Oklahoma Princess T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over the Hills and Far Away T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Practislab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Riders in the Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Solarian T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Temple 19 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: Cassidy Hill / Brian Milhaupt - summer 2007(?)
Page Views: 118 total, 1/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Jul 8, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

A link-up/variation to both SolArian and Cloak of the Wolf that tackles the attractive OW in the Cloak -headwall. I have not climbed this variation, but the following route description is from my notes from Cassidy. This route is a serious undertaking. Expect run-outs, poor quality rock, and some questionable pro. none-the-less, its an adventurous line, and great vision from the FA team.

Start as for the Cloak for the first pitch to the grassy comfy foot ledge.

P2: 5.11+S. continue up the right facing, leaning, and overhanging finger crack dihedral (Sol follows the dihedral right of this). Reported from the FA that this pitch has pretty thin gear, and is strenuous awkward crux, where your feet drop out from under you. This joins up with the second half of P2 of SolArian above its crux. hanging belay with bolts. 105'

P3: 5.10+R. thin and flared finger crack as if you were starting P3 of SolArian. Instead of going to the A-frame roof, undercling/smear traverse straight left under the roof of the Cloak Go past its roof crux, to a crumbly left facing dihedral weakness in the roof and around the corner. Gear belay on a good ledge at the base of the wide crack. watch for drag. Apparently there is not good pro pulling through the roof and the rock is shite.

P4: 10+S. the headwall OW. though it looks stellar from the ground, this crack is apparently very sandy, crumbly, and flared with marginal to no pro through most of it. This leads to a small ledge, then a final 30' hand crack puts you on the summit shoulder.

Down climb to the anchors of the Cloak and rap. 3 raps with two 60m ropes. or two stretched raps with 70m ropes.

Location

Variation to Solarian that tops out on the summit. see approach info for the Cloak of the Wolf and SolArian. For complete trad-style, try to link some of the dirty cracks together on pitch one.

Protection

About 17 draws/runners for P1. Plenty of thin stuff for P2 and P3, and perhaps some wide gear for the headwall crack.

Photos

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