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Routes in Land that Time Forgot

Anasazi Arete (Peter Hubbel Memorial) S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ankar Gate S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Sheep T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Cloak of the Wolf S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
I Love a Cigar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jacob's Ladder S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Knossos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Labyrinth T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Minoan Maze S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nazca Line S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
North Buttress of Acid Rock S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Oklahoma Princess T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over the Hills and Far Away T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Practislab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Riders in the Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Shadows on the Rock S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Solarian T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Temple 19 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Elevation: 8,472 ft
GPS: 39.19, -105.331 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 20,141 total · 142/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Mar 1, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

The north face is known as the Land that Time Forgot. The routes, along with their names, suggest almost a mystical feel. The friction on this granite is unmatched. You may find yourself sticking to stuff you wouldn't normally think you could. Therefore, it turns out that most are fully bolted face and slab routes, largely established in ground-up-on-lead style. While many of them top out on the saddle, a few adventure to the summit. Some old and very obscure aid route exists as well as some newer trad climbs. The saddle is simply an awesome place and picnic paradise. From here, you can top out on the summit via one of the routes on Velcro Wall, the low angled slabs on the south face.

Getting There

See Sheeprock description.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Land that Time Forgot

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Oklahoma Princess
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 17
Knossos
Sport 5 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 5
Nazca Line
Sport 5 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 7
Anasazi Arete (Peter Hubbel Memorial)
Sport 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 12
Riders in the Sky
Sport 4 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 11
Solarian
Trad 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
I Love a Cigar
Trad 5 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 11
Ankar Gate
Sport 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Oklahoma Princess
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Knossos
 17
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport 5 pitches
Nazca Line
 5
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport 5 pitches
Anasazi Arete (Peter Hubbel…
 7
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Riders in the Sky
 12
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Sport 4 pitches
Solarian
 11
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 4 pitches
I Love a Cigar
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Ankar Gate
 11
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Land that Time Forgot »

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Bill Schmausser
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Schmausser   Colorado Springs, CO
One of the great stories of this rock is Peter Hubbel's "Cave house" he set it up just down from the base of the rock. During the sumer of ...uh...was it 2000?.... He and Charles Traufield and many of his young disciples, put together some deluxe, cave, living accommodations. It was his own little 'Granite Trailer' with all the the expected amenities: sleeping quarters, lounging quarters, bear defenses, white gas, warm beer, canned food. Had their been a Chevy Van and a Trans Am been parked out front and several Lynrd Skynyrd posters stuck to the walls, it could have been in West Virginia. Tragically, the Hayman fire chased him out (and he barely got out) and that trashy little piece of Squatter Bohemia was forever lost. Priceless. May 30, 2007
Trevor
Cottonwood Heights, UT
Trevor   Cottonwood Heights, UT
I have some pics of whomever was on the N. Face of Sheep Rock (Land that Time Forgot) Sunday, June 10, 2007 taken from the top of Acid (over looking climbers from side). I can send them to you or post them here.... Jun 11, 2007
Great Splatte slab/face climbing with big fat new bolts.
Some routes (too?) heavily bolted.
Some routes traditional Splatte bolt spacing. Jun 11, 2007

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