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Land That Time Forgot Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Land That Time Forgot

L › R R › L A › Z

	African Flake S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Anasazi Arete (Pete Hubbel Memorial) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Ankar Gate S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Black Sheep T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
	Cloak of the Wolf S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Fire on the Horizon S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	I Love a Cigar T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Jacob's Ladder S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Knossos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Labyrinth T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Minoan Maze S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Nazca Line S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	North Buttress of Acid Rock S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Oklahoma Princess T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Over the Hills and Far Away T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Practislab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Riders in the Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Route that Time Forgot, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Sea of Sorrow S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Shadows on the Rock S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Solarian T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Temple 19 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

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Elevation:	8,477 ft
GPS:	39.18999, -105.33063 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	52,925 total · 267/month
Shared By:	Wiled Horse on Mar 1, 2007
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

Description

The north face is known as the Land that Time Forgot. The routes, along with their names, suggest almost a mystical feel. The friction on this granite is unmatched. You may find yourself sticking to stuff you wouldn't normally think you could. Therefore, it turns out that most are fully bolted face and slab routes, largely established in ground-up-on-lead style. While many of them top out on the saddle, a few adventure to the summit. Some old and very obscure aid route exists as well as some newer trad climbs. The saddle is simply an awesome place and picnic paradise. From here, you can top out on the summit via one of the routes on Velcro Wall, the low angled slabs on the south face.

Getting There

See the Sheeprock description.

Descents

Per Ellen S: Jacob's Ladder can be rapped with a 70m rope and some painful but doable down-bushwhacking. It cannot be rapped with one 60m rope. The rap anchors for Jacob's Ladder were somewhere in the vicinity of GPS coordinates: 39.18947, -105.33133. If I recall correctly, they were the 3rd-from-climber's-left of 3 sets of rap anchors that we found in that area.

Cloak of the Wolf and Ankar Gate can apparently also be rapped with 2 60s, but I have no firsthand experience with that.

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Land That Time Forgot

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 7 ● Oklahoma Princess Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 30 ● Knossos Sport 5 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 10 ● Anasazi Arete (Pete Hubbel Memor… Sport 2 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 5 ● Nazca Line Sport 5 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 12 ● Minoan Maze Sport 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R 21 ● Riders in the Sky Sport 4 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 27 ● Solarian Trad 4 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 8 ● I Love a Cigar Trad 5 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 15 ● Ankar Gate Sport 3 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 3 ● Sea of Sorrow Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b 6 ● Cloak of the Wolf Sport 4 pitches