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Routes in Land that Time Forgot

Ankar Gate S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Sheep T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Cloak of the Wolf S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
I Love a Cigar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jacob's Ladder S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Knossos S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Minoan Maze S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nazca Line S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Oklahoma Princess T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over the Hills and Far Away T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Practislab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Riders in the Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Solarian T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Temple 19 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: P. Hubbel, CT, D. Mabe
Page Views: 1,093 total · 8/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Mar 2, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description of sorts

Jacob's Ladder passes many of the jagged overlaps and roofs in the center of the wall, right of the Ankar Gate, with direct slab climbing in between. Each pitch is around 100 feet. Bring a bunch of draws.

Start some 100 feet right of the Practislab.

P1: Moderate slab leads to an 'eyelid' roof. Cruxy improbable roof is height-dependent and crimpy, but rewarded with a jug. There is another variation pulling the roof to the right. Belay set back on a nice ledge. 16 bolts 140'.

P2: Stem corner then step right out of it. Insecure slab moves follow to the belay. 10 bolts.

P3: Long stretch of slab climbing leads straight up to a stiff roof problem. Keep the feet pasted! The crux of the route, IMO. 13 bolts.

P4: Moderate face and slab. little dirty in spots to another roof that is a bit easier than the first two. 5.11ish, but there are bigger holds! 15 bolts.

P5: Moderate climbing to the right then continue to the saddle. You pass by some belay anchors of another route. 9 bolts.

Pro

QDs and lots of them. Two ropes.

How you get down.

Rap 3 raps with two 60m ropes(recommended).
EDIT: per Kevin Stricker, P1 rappel is 140', cannot rap with one 60m rope.

This is the quickest and cleanest rap off of the saddle.

A short down climb from the last 3 bolt anchor will put you on the saddle where you can take your shoes off and picnic.

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Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Really, Tamas? That's not how I remember it, as I personally bolted P1 and that was the last pitch to be bolted and then we climbed it. Are you thinking of another route? Was that the same weekend you hurt yourself from a boulder that dislodged on the trail? Jul 7, 2012
Not that I really care, but Josh Heiney and myself did this route right after it was bolted. In fact, the last anchors were still being bolted when we started the route. We did not bolt it, however.

Nevertheless, it's a fantastic route. Nov 3, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Thanks for the correction, Kevin, I added to above description. Jun 23, 2008
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
A single 60m rope will not get you down the first pitch. You will need a 70m rope to get to scrambling territory on the last rappel.

What's up with bolting a 5.8 crack on P2? FA party couldn't be bothered to bring a single cam? Jun 22, 2008

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