Avg: 3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 700 ft (212 m), 8 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Doc Bayne, Nick Williams, Jeep Gaskins|
|Page Views:||604 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Brian E on Sep 9, 2017|
|Admins:||Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
As of 2021, there is a new online method for acquiring day and annual passes to Whitesides here: recreation.gov/activitypass…. $3 for a day pass, $15 for an annual pass.
Climb the first two pitches of the OR
Pitch 3: (11c) From the large tree ledge at the top of the 2nd pitch of the OR, look for a roof with a horizontal finger crack above a blank, white face. Plug some cams and make a big, crux move to the left. Clip a bolt, and make a long reach left to a positive crimp. Clip a second bolt and continue traversing left until it's possible to head straight up to a tree ledge. Try to get a piece or two in for your second. Belay on the nice ledge. Gear anchor
Pitch 4: 2 variations:
a. (10+) Climb up to a bolt and traverse right. Clip a second bolt and continue right on great rock with cool face holds. At a block, head up to the end of the black diorite, plug a .75, and make a weird and challenging mantle to a 2 bolt anchor.
b. The epiphany pitch. I didn't climb it so I don't know, but word on the street is it's pretty scary. I believe you veer left after the low 2 bolts to a steep face.
Pitch 5: (11c, A0). Clip the bolt and pull through the blank section to positive holds and a second bolt. Trend right on positive holds and steep terrain past a couple more bolts. After the fourth bolt you can protect your second with a finger-sized cam. Traverse hard left to a 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 6: (10c). Traverse up and right past a .75 cam placement to a black bowl feature to a first bolt. Pull over the roof to a second bolt. Thin holds above the bolt and roof kept my attention. Pull a second roof at a more moderate grade, and run it to the double bolted belay at the end of the 5.4 ramp on the OR.
Pitch 7&8: Finish on the OR.