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Connections
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British A0 R
Avg: 3.2 from 5
votes
Routes in Southeast Face
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Arm and Hammer T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Bloody Bolts and Brown Trousers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0 |
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Catholic School Girls Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Children of the Sun T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b A0-1 PG13 |
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Connections T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a A0 R |
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Crown of Thorns T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Dirty Dikes DDC T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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First Mate T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Great Ah Ha, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mainline T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Matrix, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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New Diversions T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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New Perversions T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Original Route (aka Gom Jabber) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Parental Guidance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Perverse Incentive T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Purple Toad Winery T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Route Doctors, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Spearfinger T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Traditions T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Volunteer Wall, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Warriors Way T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Whippin' Boy T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Whiteside Girdle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 700 ft (212 m), 8 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 35.0831, -83.1358 |
| FA: | Doc Bayne, Nick Williams, Jeep Gaskins |
| Page Views: | 1,221 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Brian E on Sep 9, 2017 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) - New online pass system
Details
As of 2021, there is a new online method for acquiring day and annual passes to Whitesides here: recreation.gov/activitypass…. $3 for a day pass, $15 for an annual pass.
Description
A great route that has 1 measly section of aid. More sustained (and maybe better?) than Traditions.
Climb the first two pitches of the OR
Pitch 3: (11c) From the large tree ledge at the top of the 2nd pitch of the OR, look for a roof with a horizontal finger crack above a blank, white face. Plug some cams and make a big, crux move to the left. Clip a bolt, and make a long reach left to a positive crimp. Clip a second bolt and continue traversing left until it's possible to head straight up to a tree ledge. Try to get a piece or two in for your second. Belay on the nice ledge. Gear anchor
Pitch 4: 2 variations:
a. (10+) Climb up to a bolt and traverse right. Clip a second bolt and continue right on great rock with cool face holds. At a block, head up to the end of the black diorite, plug a .75, and make a weird and challenging mantle to a 2 bolt anchor.
b. The epiphany pitch. I didn't climb it so I don't know, but word on the street is it's pretty scary. I believe you veer left after the low 2 bolts to a steep face.
Pitch 5: (11c, A0). Clip the bolt and pull through the blank section to positive holds and a second bolt. Trend right on positive holds and steep terrain past a couple more bolts. After the fourth bolt you can protect your second with a finger-sized cam. Traverse hard left to a 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 6: (10c). Traverse up and right past a .75 cam placement to a black bowl feature to a first bolt. Pull over the roof to a second bolt. Thin holds above the bolt and roof kept my attention. Pull a second roof at a more moderate grade, and run it to the double bolted belay at the end of the 5.4 ramp on the OR.
Pitch 7&8: Finish on the OR.
2 Comments