Type: Trad, Aid, 700 ft (212 m), 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Doc Bayne, Nick Williams, Jeep Gaskins
Page Views: 604 total · 13/month
Shared By: Brian E on Sep 9, 2017
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Access Issue: 2021 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) - New online pass system Details

Description

A great route that has 1 measly section of aid. More sustained (and maybe better?) than Traditions.

Climb the first two pitches of the OR

Pitch 3: (11c) From the large tree ledge at the top of the 2nd pitch of the OR, look for a roof with a horizontal finger crack above a blank, white face. Plug some cams and make a big, crux move to the left. Clip a bolt, and make a long reach left to a positive crimp. Clip a second bolt and continue traversing left until it's possible to head straight up to a tree ledge. Try to get a piece or two in for your second. Belay on the nice ledge. Gear anchor

Pitch 4: 2 variations:
a. (10+) Climb up to a bolt and traverse right. Clip a second bolt and continue right on great rock with cool face holds. At a block, head up to the end of the black diorite, plug a .75, and make a weird and challenging mantle to a 2 bolt anchor.
b. The epiphany pitch. I didn't climb it so I don't know, but word on the street is it's pretty scary. I believe you veer left after the low 2 bolts to a steep face.

Pitch 5: (11c, A0). Clip the bolt and pull through the blank section to positive holds and a second bolt. Trend right on positive holds and steep terrain past a couple more bolts. After the fourth bolt you can protect your second with a finger-sized cam. Traverse hard left to a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 6: (10c). Traverse up and right past a .75 cam placement to a black bowl feature to a first bolt. Pull over the roof to a second bolt. Thin holds above the bolt and roof kept my attention. Pull a second roof at a more moderate grade, and run it to the double bolted belay at the end of the 5.4 ramp on the OR.

Pitch 7&8: Finish on the OR.

Location

This route is between the OR and Whipping Boy.

Protection

Doubles up to BD .75 and singles of 1, 2, and 3 should probably suffice. Lots of draws.

Photos