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Routes in Southeast Face

Arm and Hammer T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bloody Bolts and Brown Trousers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0
Catholic School Girls Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Children of the Sun T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b A0-1 PG13
Connections T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a A0 R
Crown of Thorns T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
First Mate T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Great Ah Ha, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Matrix, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
New Diversions T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Original Route (aka Gom Jabber) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Parental Guidance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Perverse Incentive T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Traditions T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Volunteer Wall, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Warriors Way T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Whippin' Boy T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whiteside Girdle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Aid, 700 ft, 8 pitches
FA: Bruce Burgess, Nathan Brown
Page Views: 2,048 total, 21/month
Shared By: nbrown on Dec 21, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Seasonal Falcon Closure Details

Description

I'm going to try to remember the details here but it has been a few years since this route was done. This route gets shade earliest of the headwall routes as it is on the far left side. It can also be split into two climbs by the massive tree ledge, either by doing the first half and bailing, or traversing in and climbing only the top half.

P-1 Climb up the corner past gear to a bolt that protects the traverse right to the other corner. Follow this past gear and a pin to an awkward move onto the face. Climb past 2 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. This is a good cragging pitch but is a spicy and strenuous lead! 5.11

P-2 Climb up and left on huge holds past 2 bolts and gear to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.8+

P-3 Climb up thin face past a bolt to a steeper section in orange rock. Continue up and left past another bolt to easier terrain. Continue up to tree, or optional 2 bolt belay (on different route). Note: the bolt count may be off. 5.10+

P-4 Climb up the easy but run out face to a steeper section protected with 2 large bolts. Follow this to the "Port O Call" ledge. Move belay up to high part of ledge for pitch 5. 5.10+

Edit: This pitch had some recent hold breakage and may need an additional bolt for pro (protecting the move up to the first).

P-5 Climb a short section of increadibly rotten rock to bolts and perhaps a stopperhead. Continue up and right past gear and maybe one more bolt to a ledge with a single bolt & gear anchor. 5.11/A0 The aid bit is very short.

P-6 Traverse out right and climb up past bolts and gear to a 2 bolt hanging belay at the brink of the headwall. Excellent rock and excellent exposure! 5.11+ This pitch has gone free but still needs a proper redpoint.

P-7 Traverse right and climb a seam up onto the easier face that leads into the upper portion of "Ship Of Fools". Belay on large tree ledge. 5.9+?

P-8 Climb the easy slab to the large right facing corner feature at the overlook. 5.7

Location

Starts in a double right facing corner at the far left of the Headwall area.

Protection

Standard rack up to #4 camelot. Small stoppers are very useful on the first pitch.

Photos

nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
Not sure Scott. The aid bit is very short and steep but slightly crumbly. The next pitch was freed by Bruce (yoyo), so I went back and removed the A-0 rating. Dec 23, 2009
Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
Scott Gilliam   Raleigh, NC
Any hope this will go free, Nathan? Dec 22, 2009