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Routes in Southeast Face

Arm and Hammer T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bloody Bolts and Brown Trousers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0
Catholic School Girls Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Children of the Sun T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b A0-1 PG13
Connections T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a A0 R
Crown of Thorns T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
First Mate T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Great Ah Ha, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Matrix, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
New Diversions T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Original Route (aka Gom Jabber) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Parental Guidance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Perverse Incentive T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Traditions T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Volunteer Wall, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Warriors Way T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Whippin' Boy T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whiteside Girdle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 750 ft, 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Arno Ilgner
Page Views: 3,827 total, 52/month
Shared By: jgallagher on Nov 21, 2011 with updates
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Seasonal Falcon Closure Details

Description

This route is one of the best routes in the state. Wait, make that the east coast. It's steep, sustained, and well protected with high quality climbing.

P1: Climb up the lower angle slab more or less straight up passing two bolts to a large overhang with a bolt in it. Clip the bolt and do a 5.12 mantel onto the slabby face above. Follow face past one bolt and gear to a bolted anchor. (5.12b)

P2: Pumpy and sustained. Follow the bolted line past intricate steep climbing with awesome movement. Bring a #1 camalot (5.11+)

P3: Another fun but very moderate pitch. Although this is nearly all bolted falling would still be bad due to the low angle nature and well spaced bolts. Bring a few pieces of gear (5.8)

P4: Traverse straight right off of the belay to the base of some large flakes. Be very careful on this pitch because every feature you touch is a HUGE flake that could be pulled of if you aren't careful. This is the most dangerous pitch of the route despite being very easy. (5.4)

P5: The start of the headwall! Funk your way up a short left facing corner. Then start traversing right past bolts though extremely overhanging rock and into a moderate boulder problem pulling onto the next face. Follow this face past small crimps and sustained face climbing up to the bolted belay. Bring purple through yellow tcu (5.11c)

P6: One of the best pitches on the route! Get stood up off the belay and fire through the nearly horizontal overhanging via jugs and heelhooking. Pull onto the overhanging face above and climbing through a couple bands of blank rock using big moves and a few poor holds. Pumpy but juggy climbing leads through the remainder of the bolts. Bring only quickdraws (5.12b)

P7: The main pitch of the route and most definitely the hardest. Steep climbing through big holds leads to a crux low on the pitch. This crux involves slopey crimps and a big move. Easier climbing leads to a short traverse out right and the start of the hardest sequence on the entire route. Start off with a big move between slopers and get ready for the blankest section of blank rock you will ever see. Figure this section out and then traverse back left to a bolted anchor. Again only bring quick draws (5.12+)

P8: The victory pitch. Steep exposed yet easy climbing at the very top of the headwall. Climb past a possible gear placement and three bolts to an anchor up and slightly left. (5.7)

P9: Guide book calls it 5.5 but it is much easier than that. The only move that is close to 5.5 is protected by about 5 different rappel bolts. The rest of it is low angle enough to walk up if you were so inclined

Location

Under a large roof with a bolt on the underside of it. Just right of Little Miss Dangerous and left of the Great Aha

Protection

Lots and lots of bolts. Possibly a #4 for the first pitch to protect clipping the third bolt but i wouldn't recommend it. You wouldn't fall. other than that a rack of singles from purple tcu to #2 (good for the third pitch but without it, you are just faced with a typical whitesides moderate climbing runout so its optional). The hard pitches are basically sport routes. All belays are bolted and have chains on the bolts
Lohan
Young Harris, GA
Lohan   Young Harris, GA
Let me just reiterate much of what has already been said in case there was any doubt - this is a phenomenal route both in terms of climbing and rock quality. Lots and lots of bolts - if I were to climb again, I would only take quickdraws/alpines and 2/3 cams (#1 c4, blue tcu, and an optional .4 c4).

Every pitch goes just fine, the blank sections are between good holds, so just clip the bolt and you basically have a toprope for any hard move, including the bigger moves on these "blank" sections. The final crux pitch (P7 blankity blank blank) does indeed go, you just have to do a little searching because the sharp little crimps in that white rock are invisible until you touch them. This truly is a masterpiece! Nov 14, 2016
When is the last time someone went up this? I'm interested in trying it but am curious about the broken headwall pitch. Aug 22, 2016
I agree with Joe on most of his write up with a few exceptions and have some additional thoughts and questions.
-The p1 crux is super cool. Violent swing to cool mantle.
-Bring a few pieces and a ton of shoulder length slings for the long 5.8 pitch. It's bolted all wonky and with QDs only drag would be heinous!
-P5 11+/c thing is awesome and probably my favorite of the whole route. Awesome exposure and cool juggy climbing. Again bolted funky and requires long slings on intial gear and bolts.
- Like Joe mentioned the 1st headwall 5.12 seems to have broken. Since then I've been on it twice and broke tiny crimps both times. I'd like to hear of the last known ascent of this pitch. It now seems like a large dyno will be required to span the first blank section.
-The second headwall pitch is awesome and does seem to meander a good bit right of the crux bolt but the moves go. Again slings on bolts.
-Depending on conditions the exit moves off the headwall are probably totally soaked and the most gripped you'll be on the entire route.
-This is the best protected route I've done at WS with the highest avg quality rock. I hope it can go free again and deserves way more traffic than it seems to get!!!! Dec 18, 2015
Joseph DeGaetano
Fayetteville, WV
Joseph DeGaetano   Fayetteville, WV
Definitely one of the best routes on the east coast!!! Well protected and super steep make this rig a truly unique experience.

A few thoughts on the route:

The mantle on pitch 1 is probably no harder than 11+. Have no fear. Have some mid size pieces to protect the run outs above the mantle.

The 2nd pitch "11d" is awesome and no move is harder than 11a/b, just a lot of 10+/11- climbing.

Bring only quickdraws on the 5.8 pitch. If you are scared of falling on this back off now.

The second 5.11c pitch is harder than the enduro one and has some suspect rock.

The first of the 5.12 headwall pitches is pretty easy starting off (even though I've heard people call the move to the third bolt 12b/c, its no harder than 11+) but be ready for a super thin techy boulder problem that is mid 5.12. I managed to free the move but my partner pulled a very small micro flake off when seconding it. Not sure how hard now.

The third and crux 5.12 pitch is mostly easy climbing with a stout blankity blank section of rock that can easily be aided. My guess is that either something broke up there, or the line is not direct above the bolt, and instead moves a good ways to the right and then back left. Not sure, but I fell trying and one look at my freezing belayer and I decided to pull on the draw.

EXCELLENT ROUTE, NOT SCARY AT ALL, NOT THAT COMMITTING, GO DO IT!!!!! Nov 12, 2013