All Locations > N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Whiteside Mountain > Southeast Face

New Diversions

Name: New Diversions
Rating: 2.4

5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British R

Routes in Southeast Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	Arm and Hammer T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Bloody Bolts and Brown Trousers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0
	Catholic School Girls Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R
	Children of the Sun T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b A0-1 PG13
	Connections T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a A0 R
	Crown of Thorns T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
	Dirty Dikes DDC T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
	First Mate T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Great Ah Ha, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Mainline T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
	Matrix, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	New Diversions T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	New Perversions T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
	Original Route (aka Gom Jabber) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Parental Guidance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Perverse Incentive T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Purple Toad Winery T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Route Doctors, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
	Spearfinger T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
	Traditions T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Volunteer Wall, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Warriors Way T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Whippin' Boy T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Whiteside Girdle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
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Type:	Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 10 pitches, Grade III
FA:	Bob Rotert, Thomas Kelley, 1982
Page Views:	3,776 total · 21/month
Shared By:	Andrew McDowell on Oct 8, 2010
Admins:	Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) - New online pass system Details

All routes between and including Southwest Arete to Mainline are closed. fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…

As of 2021, there is a new online method for acquiring day and annual passes to Whitesides here: recreation.gov/activitypass…. $3 for a day pass, $15 for an annual pass.

Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags Details

The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!

carolinaclimbers.org/conten…

Description

Fun wandery adventure climbing. More runout than traditions or OR. It wouldn't be hard to get seriously off route.

Below are extremely rough personal notes written mostly after doing the route for the first time a long time ago. Consult the guidebooks for more and better info.

Warning: Climbing at Whiteside Mountain is extremely dangerous due to long runouts, poor protection, loose rock, difficult route finding, and other factors. The information in this posting is provided for informational and historical purposes only to aid in understanding roughly where the route has been climbed before. Information provided is approximate, subjective, and based upon sometimes vague memories of recreational climber(s) that may not have been recorded until long after climbing the route. As such, the information is unverified and may be inaccurate, incomplete, and/or misleading. Any person(s) attempting to climb this route or any others does so at their own risk using their own routefinding skills and judgement and shall not rely on any information in this posting. It is neither claimed nor implied that bolts, fixed anchors, and removable protection placement locations on the route including those shown/described are safe or suitable for protecting further ascents. It is the responsibility of climbers to thoroughly inspect bolts/fixed anchors before deciding to use them.

P1: follow unprotected slab up and left up ramp, up tree ledges to high left end of tree ledge. Belay off some trees

P2: walk left on loose blocks, climb up to face, get some pro in horizontals, and clip a bolt and then a bolt and continue up difficult face to easier moves above. Work kind of up and a little right for pro for a directional and continue to gear in a huge flake roof thing to belay at a stance.

P3: Continue up face up and left to ledge.

P4: go up and right past left-down facing flake with good pro and then angle up unprotected face up and right to ledge. Try to get some pro on right end of this ledge with long sling, then go to far right end, continue up and then work back left to right facing corner arch system. To belay.

P5: Pull a few slightly overhanging moves to get out of right facing corner system, then work a little left and then back right to alcove on a ledge. Belay from crack system below a huge loose block up and left. Pink and red tricams are essential as is a yellow C3 or the equivalent

P6: Wander up and slightly left above blocks. Clip a bolt, back it up with a red C3 and continue up face to left where it is slightly less steep than on the right.

P7: go right and up, try to get trad gear, then climb past bolts and a pin. Hard mantle move above fixed pin, then work left past one thin move to jugs above. Continue up and left to bolt ~~with homemade hanger~~ (might be replaced by now) and #3 camalot to left and .4 camalot to right. (Don't link into next pitch)

P8: from the level of the belay, traverse left 20 feet, get a directional, traverse 30 more feet left, and get pro, and then continue up face past a bolt??? to ledge.

P9-P10 traverse far right until you can continue up easyish face

Location

200 feet left of traditions

Protection

Most of the bolts have been replaced with 3/8" stainless. Bring standard rack with probably more gear than most whitesides routes due to wandery nature.