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Routes in Southeast Face

Arm and Hammer T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bloody Bolts and Brown Trousers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0
Catholic School Girls Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Children of the Sun T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b A0-1 PG13
Connections T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a A0 R
Crown of Thorns T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
First Mate T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Great Ah Ha, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Matrix, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
New Diversions T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Original Route (aka Gom Jabber) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Parental Guidance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Perverse Incentive T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Traditions T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Volunteer Wall, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Warriors Way T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Whippin' Boy T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whiteside Girdle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, 750 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Original Line: Ted Anderson, Jeep Gaskin, Bob Rotert Direct Finish: 1990 Shannon Stegg & Mark Lassiter
Page Views: 1,212 total · 16/month
Shared By: rock-fencer on Mar 11, 2012
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Access Issue: Seasonal Falcon Closure Details

Description

An unheralded classic with mellow climbing but sparse protection and lots of lichen!!!

Pitch 1: Start on P1 of the OR (100 ft, 5.6)

Pitch 2: From the ledge walk uphill to climbers right until you are underneath the big corner. Climb up crystals to gear in a pod. Pull through edges passing one bolt. Aim for the second ledge in the dihedral to find a prime belay ledge in the sun. (~80 ft, 5.9)

Pitch 3: Leave your plush belay and climb up the face next to the dihedral past a large loose block. Move into the dihedral and layback/jam/undercling your way up to the base of the big roof keeping an eye out for some exfoliating rock. Though it may look intimidating the roof is mellow as you pull out to climbers right on jugs. Belay in the horizontal. (~80 ft, 5.8+)

Pitch 4: Romp up the mostly unprotected face for more or less a full rope length. The Shull guide says to go straight up. If you do this you will wind up on a giant ledge with trees on the right. Traverse to climbers left around the small right facing dihedral about 50 ft to gain the proper start of P5. Alternatively as you climb up trend left following easy terrain to wind up at the proper ledge with a big block you can sling all the way around. (~180 ft, 5.7 R)

Pitch 5: This can be split into 2 pitches with an intermediate bolted anchor, however very readily linked into one amazing pitch. The Crux : From the ledge climb up and right past a horizontal with bomber gear. Pull through jugs on white granite clipping a rusty pin on the left, can be backed up with a tcu. Pull the spectacular mantle and clip a bolt. Climb horizontals past the 2 bolt anchor aiming for the left side of the tree ledge above. A large hole along the way takes an old 3-3.5 C4. (~170 ft, 5.11- crux/ 5.9 for the rest)

Pitch 6: From the left side of the tree island, pull around the dihedral and climb up the crack into the horizontals above. Work through the horizontals into a small right facing corner. Stem up the corner moving slightly right at the end to a pod with gear. Climb up following the easiest line to the top. Belay from a stance or from small laurel bushes. Hike up and left to summit trail. (~180 ft, 5.9 R)

Location

Far right side of South East Face. Locate P1 of OR and follow description. This route tops out the cliff line.

Protection

Route has relatively sparse protection throughout. Single set from purple TCU through #3 C4 with doubles in the .75-2 for anchors. Bolts on the route are rusty as is the pin.

Photos

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TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Great climb, with a short, but tricky crux. P1's bolt is new (thanks), the crux pitch pin and bolts are not. I thought the gear beta was very accurate. I carried the tri-cams in those sizes with a #2 camalot. I also found several good nut placements and many gear placements on P4. Finding the exit through the bushes to the tourist trail was tricky in the dark. We ended up going slightly right at the end and pushed through some bush. The route wasn't as dirty and lichen covered as I thought it would be. Seems like the standard Whitesides face climbing.

On another note, what is up with the bolt-less sleeve above the crux pin? Did the FA use this on their first ascent then remove it afterwards? Aug 3, 2015

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