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Routes in Southeast Face

Arm and Hammer T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bloody Bolts and Brown Trousers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0
Catholic School Girls Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Children of the Sun T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b A0-1 PG13
Connections T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a A0 R
Crown of Thorns T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
First Mate T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Great Ah Ha, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Matrix, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
New Diversions T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Original Route (aka Gom Jabber) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Parental Guidance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Perverse Incentive T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Traditions T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Volunteer Wall, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Warriors Way T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Whippin' Boy T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whiteside Girdle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Aid, 900 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Arno and Mark Ilgner
Page Views: 593 total, 12/month
Shared By: Joseph DeGaetano on Nov 12, 2013
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Seasonal Falcon Closure Details

Description

This route needs to see more traffic. Although dirtier, looser, and technically more difficult than Warriors Way, it is a good addition to the cliff. The name of the game on this one is technical, just under vertical slab climbing.

Pitch 1 is a great mid 5.11 pitch that uses gear and bolts.

Pitches 2 and 3 are both about 5.12- and are fully bolted and can probably be aided if needed. They are characterized by technical, thin, insecure climbing. Be ready to stay engaged in order to free these two pitches.

Pitch 4 is an awesome airy traverse pitch that goes around 10+. After pitch 4 be ready to decide to commit to the route or bail.

Pitch 5 is an ugly, sharp, and somewhat loose arching corner that culminates in a undercling traverse out right. This thing is intimidating but technically no harder than 11a. Be careful on this pitch we pulled some large rock and broke footholds.

Pitch 6 is the crux pitch and can easily be aided when it gets hard. I'm not sure if this has ever been freed. If so, it's certainly in the 12+ or harder range.

Pitch 7 is a fun, easy 5.10 pitch with a moderate runout to the anchors.

Pitch 8 is characterized by jungleneering through briars and then an easy solo up slabby rock to the rim.

Location

Left of Warriors Way, just right of Ship of Fools and left of the Promised Land

Protection

Unfortunately you'll want a double rack up to camalot #2 for pitch 5. You need at least one #3 and #4 camalot. Lots of slings

Photos

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