Type: Trad, Aid, 900 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Arno and Mark Ilgner
Page Views: 713 total · 11/month
Shared By: Joseph DeGaetano on Nov 12, 2013
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Falcon Closure Details

Description

This route needs to see more traffic. Although dirtier, looser, and technically more difficult than Warriors Way, it is a good addition to the cliff. The name of the game on this one is technical, just under vertical slab climbing.

Pitch 1 is a great mid 5.11 pitch that uses gear and bolts.

Pitches 2 and 3 are both about 5.12- and are fully bolted and can probably be aided if needed. They are characterized by technical, thin, insecure climbing. Be ready to stay engaged in order to free these two pitches.

Pitch 4 is an awesome airy traverse pitch that goes around 10+. After pitch 4 be ready to decide to commit to the route or bail.

Pitch 5 is an ugly, sharp, and somewhat loose arching corner that culminates in a undercling traverse out right. This thing is intimidating but technically no harder than 11a. Be careful on this pitch we pulled some large rock and broke footholds.

Pitch 6 is the crux pitch and can easily be aided when it gets hard. I'm not sure if this has ever been freed. If so, it's certainly in the 12+ or harder range.

Pitch 7 is a fun, easy 5.10 pitch with a moderate runout to the anchors.

Pitch 8 is characterized by jungleneering through briars and then an easy solo up slabby rock to the rim.

Location

Left of Warriors Way, just right of Ship of Fools and left of the Promised Land

Protection

Unfortunately you'll want a double rack up to camalot #2 for pitch 5. You need at least one #3 and #4 camalot. Lots of slings

Photos

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