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Routes in Southeast Face

Arm and Hammer T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bloody Bolts and Brown Trousers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0
Catholic School Girls Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Children of the Sun T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b A0-1 PG13
Connections T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a A0 R
Crown of Thorns T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
First Mate T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Great Ah Ha, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Matrix, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
New Diversions T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Original Route (aka Gom Jabber) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Parental Guidance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Perverse Incentive T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Traditions T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Volunteer Wall, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Warriors Way T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Whippin' Boy T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whiteside Girdle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 650 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Doc Bayne, Mark Lassiter, Nick Williams - 1993
Page Views: 3,205 total, 37/month
Shared By: andjoely on Sep 24, 2010
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route

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Seasonal Falcon Closure Details


Probably the best route right of mainline. All the pitches are good and it follows a direct line up the good white rock for a ways. It is well protected except perhaps for a few sections of 5.8 but in classic Doc Bayne style you actually have to free climb the harder parts of the route to get up it.

P1: Climb the 5.6 standard variation to the 1st pitch of the OR to the tree.
P2: climb straight up past a fixed pin and a hangerless bolt with a rivet hanger to a left facing corner. Continue climb the corner for a few feet then step right onto the face to climb straight up past 2 bolts to a ledge with a anchor with a bolt backed up by tricams. (5.8+)
p3: Climb above the belay then angle left to cross over dikes. There is good but pretty tricky pro to be had in some of these dikes, with hybrid small cams being useful. Continue past one bolt to a 2 bolt anchor (Note: the Shull-Lambert guide tells you to angle up and right from the belay which is wrong and must be a relic of when people belayed further to the left on the tree ledge) (5.10b)
P4: climb up and left then hand traverse the horizontal weakness out right past bolts. Continue up the face past 2 bolts to a seam to a ledge. belay to the left in a horizontal with medium cams or continue straight up a steep seam to another ledge. The moves on this pitch are never hard but the cummulative pump factor gives it the grade. It is very well protected with clean falls into air. (5.11d)
p5: continue up face past a bolt to a belay at a bolt under a flake (5.8)
p6: continue straight up excellent slab climbing (5.9)


goes through the white rock above the 1st pitch of the OR 60 feet left of the 25 foot long blocky right facing corner below a roof of new perversions


cams to #2, nuts, tricams


Clemson, S.C.
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
You guys and your hybrids. The third pitch took tri-cams nicely instead of hybrids. A couple of the spots hybrids will be more secure, but not mandatory. The second pitch could use an update on the fixed hardware. Everything was rusted. The loose bolt on the crux is a hopeless cause. The way the directional is from the next bolt, it will never stay tight. The crux pitch was fun. Like everyone has said, they are all jugs at the last two bolts. Just keep wandering to stay on them. Derek your nut has been unfixed. May 11, 2016
Was on Whippin' Boy today. I too noticed the loose nut on the second bolt of the .11d pitch when I got there, but I totally spaced on a wrench or even using a nut-tool to tighten it. I hand-tightened it on the way by. But that thing could use a turn or two with a wrench for sure.

Unfortunately, we also left a stopper (unintentionally) at the base of P2 in the thin crack on the OR ledge just below the fixed pin. If anyone can get that thing out, please do. I hate fixing gear. Mar 15, 2014
Jeff Mekolites
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
P2 - Almost 200 feet to the good ledge with bolt. Great belay.
P3 - Awesome face climbing pitch. Decent gear. Yes on offsets - money piece.
P4 - Super Pumpy! Another long pitch if you go all the way to the second ledge. Great belay. Just right of the OR traverse pitch.
P5 - Should be able to see bolt at the flake.
P6 - One 5.9 move and lots of lichen gets you to the top.

Great, safe route! Nov 15, 2011
Columbia, SC
rock-fencer   Columbia, SC
P2. Harder down low for sure. Go straight up through lichen covered holds on the face just right of the corner. You can traverse right as well, maybe slightly easier.
P3. Amazing face climbing pitch. Unfolds effortlessly. Small Offset cams useful. Generally trends up and to the left from P2 belay.
P4. JUGS JUGS JUGS. Trend up and left before pulling an ackward mantle onto a small ledge just under the overhang. Rest up and move past two bolts down low protecting the technical crux. Keep moving on big holds and snag the third bolt. Dance right and left following the big holds leading up to the fourth bolt and the seam 10 ft above. No move is specifically hard but this packs one hell of a pump! Mar 14, 2011