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Routes in Southeast Face
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Arm and Hammer T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bloody Bolts and Brown Trousers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0 |
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Catholic School Girls Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Children of the Sun T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b A0-1 PG13 |
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Connections T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a A0 R |
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Crown of Thorns T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Dirty Dikes DDC T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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First Mate T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Great Ah Ha, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mainline T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Matrix, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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New Diversions T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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New Perversions T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Original Route (aka Gom Jabber) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Parental Guidance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Perverse Incentive T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Purple Toad Winery T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Route Doctors, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Spearfinger T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Traditions T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Volunteer Wall, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Warriors Way T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Whippin' Boy T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Whiteside Girdle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Shannon Stegg and Karim?? |
| Page Views: | 2,288 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew McDowell on Oct 8, 2010 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) - New online pass system
Details
As of 2021, there is a new online method for acquiring day and annual passes to Whitesides here: recreation.gov/activitypass…. $3 for a day pass, $15 for an annual pass.
Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
A good but wandery climb with no bolts that is one of the more runout and serious climbs on the mountain. You definitely need to be way more than a 5.9 leader to do this climb safely. The protection for the committing mantle crux on P4 is poor and you would probably deck onto a ledge 25 feet below if you blow it. The way to go on this route is not obvious. I led it with Shannon following many years after the FA and he only vaguely remembered the way he originally went, so what we did as described below may not necessarily have been what was originally done.
Warning: Climbing at Whiteside Mountain is extremely dangerous due to long runouts, poor protection, difficult route finding, and other factors. The information in this posting is provided for informational and historical purposes only to aid in understanding roughly where the route has been climbed before. Information provided is approximate, subjective, and based upon sometimes vague memories of recreational climber(s) that may not have been recorded until long after climbing the route. As such, the information is unverified and may be inaccurate, incomplete, and/or misleading. Any person(s) attempting to climb this route or any others does so at their own risk using their own routefinding skills and judgement and shall not rely on any information in this posting. It is neither claimed nor implied that any bolts, fixed anchors, and removable protection placement locations on the route are safe or suitable for protecting further ascents.
P1: Climb the 1st pitch of the Original Route then walk over right to the left end of a small clearing about 40 feet left of Parental Guidance
P2: Climb path of least resistance through face past numerous horizontals then angle up to a large left facing corner about 70 feet up. From the top of the corner angle up and right to belay at a ledge at the base of a 25 foot long shallow left facing corner / flake. (130 feet)
P3: Climb the left facing corner to just below a bulge where the rock becomes vertical, then step right to climb through the bulge via jugs 8 feet right of the corner. Continue up and right to the higher of two small tree ledges.
P4: Climb up and right to a ledge below a roof. Locate the fixed pin in the roof that is part of the route Catholic Girls Direct. Climb out the roof to a poorly protected crux mantle on jugs 6 feet left of the fixed pin. Continue up the face to a gear anchor 20 feet left of the 2 bolt anchor of Catholic Girls Direct.
P5-P6: Continue up and left on the face staying left of the tree ledge but right of the huge left facing corner of parental guidance (I climbed the last couple pitches of catholic girls direct directly above the left end of the tree ledge instead mistakenly)
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