Type: Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Shannon Stegg and Karim??
Page Views: 2,227 total · 14/month
Shared By: Andrew McDowell on Oct 8, 2010
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

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Description Suggest change

A good but wandery climb with no bolts that is one of the more runout and serious climbs on the mountain. You definitely need to be way more than a 5.9 leader to do this climb safely. The protection for the committing mantle crux on P4 is poor and you would probably deck onto a ledge 25 feet below if you blow it. The way to go on this route is not obvious. I led it with Shannon following many years after the FA and he only vaguely remembered the way he originally went, so what we did as described below may not necessarily have been what was originally done.

Warning: Climbing at Whiteside Mountain is extremely dangerous due to long runouts, poor protection, difficult route finding, and other factors. The information in this posting is provided for informational and historical purposes only to aid in understanding roughly where the route has been climbed before. Information provided is approximate, subjective, and based upon sometimes vague memories of recreational climber(s) that may not have been recorded until long after climbing the route. As such, the information is unverified and may be inaccurate, incomplete, and/or misleading. Any person(s) attempting to climb this route or any others does so at their own risk using their own routefinding skills and judgement and shall not rely on any information in this posting. It is neither claimed nor implied that any bolts, fixed anchors, and removable protection placement locations on the route are safe or suitable for protecting further ascents.

P1: Climb the 1st pitch of the Original Route then walk over right to the left end of a small clearing about 40 feet left of Parental Guidance 

P2: Climb path of least resistance through face past numerous horizontals then angle up to a large left facing corner about 70 feet up. From the top of the corner angle up and right to belay at a ledge at the base of a 25 foot long shallow left facing corner / flake. (130 feet)

P3: Climb the left facing corner to just below a bulge where the rock becomes vertical, then step right to climb through the bulge via jugs 8 feet right of the corner. Continue up and right to the higher of two small tree ledges.

P4: Climb up and right to a ledge below a roof. Locate the fixed pin in the roof that is part of the route Catholic Girls Direct. Climb out the roof to a poorly protected crux mantle on jugs 6 feet left of the fixed pin. Continue up the face to a gear anchor 20 feet left of the 2 bolt anchor of Catholic Girls Direct.

P5-P6: Continue up and left on the face staying left of the tree ledge but right of the huge left facing corner of parental guidance (I climbed the last couple pitches of catholic girls direct directly above the left end of the tree ledge instead mistakenly)

Location Suggest change

200 right from top of 1st pitch of OR. P2 is shared with Perverse Incentive

Protection Suggest change

Cams to #4, nuts, tricams. Double up on small - medium cams


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