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Routes in Southeast Face

Arm and Hammer T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bloody Bolts and Brown Trousers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0
Catholic School Girls Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Children of the Sun T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b A0-1 PG13
Connections T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a A0 R
Crown of Thorns T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
First Mate T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Great Ah Ha, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Matrix, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
New Diversions T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Original Route (aka Gom Jabber) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Parental Guidance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Perverse Incentive T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Traditions T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Volunteer Wall, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Warriors Way T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Whippin' Boy T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whiteside Girdle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Shannon Stegg and Karim??
Page Views: 1,148 total, 13/month
Shared By: andjoely on Oct 8, 2010
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Seasonal Falcon Closure Details

Description

A good but wandery climb with no bolts that is one of the more runout and serious climbs on the mountain. You definitely need to be way more than a 5.9 leader to do this climb safely. The protection for the commiting mantle crux on P4 is quite poor and you would probably deck onto a ledge 25 feet below if you blow it.

P1: Climb the 1st pitch of the Original Route then walk over right to the left end of a small clearing about 40 feet left of Parental Guidance P2: Climb path of least resistance through face past numerous horizontals then angle up to a large left facing corner about 70 feet up. From the top of the corner angle up and right to belay at a ledge at the base of a 25 foot long shallow left facing corner / flake. (130 feet)
P3: Climb the left facing corner to just below a bulge where the rock becomes vertical, then step right to climb through the bulge via jugs 8 feet right of the corner. Continue up and right to the higher of two small tree ledges.
P4: Climb up and right to a ledge below a roof. Locate the fixed pin in the roof that is part of the route Catholic Girls Direct. Climb out the roof to a poorly protected crux mantle on jugs 6 feet left of the fixed pin. Continue up the face to a gear anchor 20 feet left of the 2 bolt anchor of Catholic Girls Direct.
P5-P6: Continue up and left on the face staying left of the tree ledge but right of the huge left facing corner of parental guidance (I climbed the last couple pitches of catholic girls direct directly above the left end of the tree ledge instead mistakenly)

Location

200 right from top of 1st pitch of OR. P2 is shared with Perverse Incentive

Protection

Cams to #4, nuts, tricams. Double up on small - medium cams

Photos

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