Type: Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Bob Rotert and Butch Palmer 1976
Page Views: 1,173 total · 21/month
Shared By: Bob Rotert on Aug 14, 2019
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

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Description Suggest change

Description taken with liberty from Thomas Kelley climbers guide to North Carolina. As I thought his guide might have better details then my memory 45 plus years after the FA.

Pro may now be available with modern gear.

  1. Pitch1 same as Original Route no Pro 5.7 Go right on tree ledge until directly below huge tree ledge 275’ above.
  2. Pitch 2 climb 160' feet No Pro to belay in crack. 5.6
  3. Pitch 3 go straight up to tree and belay No Pro. 5.4
  4. Pitch 4 climb straight up aiming for a flake below overhang. mantel on top of flake, traverse right and pull overhang. Scramble through bushes to a belay. No Pro 5.7

  5. Pitch 5  Move to left end of ledge and do a rising traverse left 15’ to a crack that can seen above the belay in a right facing dihedral, continue up and belay in a  cave at the top of the crack. Bolt belay I think. 5.5 (this pitch aims for and climbs the obvious right facing corner feature that takes up up to a ledge and with an overhang. What Thomas is calling a cave.
  6. Pitch 6 Climb up out of cave?  then traverse left 15’ to a crack.  Climb up and back right for 15’ to a bolt. From there straight up to a tree belay. 5.11 R or A2. FA party used one point of aid. FFA by Lee Munson and Todd Wells 1986
  7. Pitch 7  No Pro traverse left 150 feet then climb back up and right for 40 feet mantle on a flake climb up the vegetation locate at fixed pin at the Belay. 5.7
  8. Pitch 8 Finishes up last pitch of The Original Route

Location Suggest change

 Starts on the first pitch of the Original Route 

Protection Suggest change

Nuts and stoppers... :o)