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Routes in Southeast Face
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Arm and Hammer T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bloody Bolts and Brown Trousers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0 |
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Catholic School Girls Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Children of the Sun T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b A0-1 PG13 |
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Connections T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a A0 R |
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Crown of Thorns T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Dirty Dikes DDC T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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First Mate T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Great Ah Ha, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mainline T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Matrix, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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New Diversions T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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New Perversions T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Original Route (aka Gom Jabber) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Parental Guidance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Perverse Incentive T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Purple Toad Winery T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Route Doctors, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Spearfinger T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Traditions T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Volunteer Wall, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Warriors Way T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Whippin' Boy T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Whiteside Girdle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 2300 ft (697 m), 14 pitches |
| FA: | Sam England and Ryan Little - July 13, 2014 |
| Page Views: | 3,463 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Sam England on Aug 21, 2014 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) - New online pass system
Details
All routes between and including Southwest Arete to Mainline are closed. fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
As of 2021, there is a new online method for acquiring day and annual passes to Whitesides here: recreation.gov/activitypass…. $3 for a day pass, $15 for an annual pass.
As of 2021, there is a new online method for acquiring day and annual passes to Whitesides here: recreation.gov/activitypass…. $3 for a day pass, $15 for an annual pass.
Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
Not sure if we were the first to do this but we couldn't find anything saying otherwise. It was a great adventure and it took us 4 trips out there to link up the whole route without rappelling, pendulums or aid. Here is the beta for how we did it. Note the pitch lengths, we simulclimbed several times on this route. Belay numbers refer to the number on the topo in NC Selected Climbs. We added no bolts or other fixed hardware.
Start by scrambling out to the Port O' Call ledge. This can be difficult to find if you've never hiked on/off it.
P1: Off the far right side of the ledge downclimb a water groove into a right facing then move right out to a "diving board" feature. Move down and right reversing the "Highway to Hell" on The Promised Land past a bolt to a 2 bolt belay. 220' 5.9
P2: Climb right off the belay, down, right then back up to access the "3 Clover Ledge" on Blarney Stone to find a 3 rusty 1/4" bolt belay. Poor protection. 70' 5.9
P3: Downclimb the rotten dihedral on the left side of the ledge until you can build a decent belay in a small pod. 50' 5.9
P4: Move back up about 10' to a decent ledge follow ledge to the right past belay 4 on The Matrix to belay 3 on Little Miss Dangerous. 150' 5.9
P5: Walk right then downclimb easy corner to belay 3 on Warrior's Way. 120' 5.4
P6: Downclimb Warrior's Way passing 4 bolts or so before angling down and right to a right facing dihedral. Downclimb dihedral to gain belay 2 on The Great Ah Ha. Sketchy for the second. 180' 5.8
P7: Walk right along ledge the face climb up to another grassy patch. Clip the optional belay on pitch 3 of Volunteer wall and continue down and right over a series of left facing flakes. Move right along a ledge with grass and a tree past, belay 3 on Last of the Dixie Trads, to a gear belay #2 on Mainline. 300' 5.7
P8: Climb up 30 to a ledge with loose blocks. Move right along ledge with some face climbing to belay 3 on Traditions. Very runout. 230' 5.8
P9: Downclimb 10 off the belay then move right to a small right facing corner with a Mountain Laurel growing out of it. Move down around the Laurel then to the right to a large dihedral. A tricky move right crosses the dihedral brings you to belay 3 on The Original Route. 120' 5.10
P10: Go right past a huge grey dihedral to a grassy ledge. Boulder up over a bulge to another ledge and move right climbing down to the right end of a ledge with a large pine tree. 150' 5.7
P11: Climb down off the right side of the ledge to another ledge. Move up and right over ramps passing a bolt and a tree. Belay at the far right side of a tree ledge. 240' 5.5
P12: Traverse right around a beautiful left facing dihedral. Continue past belay 2 on Clivis Multrum. Belay at the tree at belay 3 on Clivis Multrum. 150' 5.6
P13: Climb pitch 4 of Clivis Multrum to a ledge with a gear belay in a wide horizontal (3"-4".) 100' 5.3
P14: Escape out the 4th class finish for Clivis Multrum.
Start by scrambling out to the Port O' Call ledge. This can be difficult to find if you've never hiked on/off it.
P1: Off the far right side of the ledge downclimb a water groove into a right facing then move right out to a "diving board" feature. Move down and right reversing the "Highway to Hell" on The Promised Land past a bolt to a 2 bolt belay. 220' 5.9
P2: Climb right off the belay, down, right then back up to access the "3 Clover Ledge" on Blarney Stone to find a 3 rusty 1/4" bolt belay. Poor protection. 70' 5.9
P3: Downclimb the rotten dihedral on the left side of the ledge until you can build a decent belay in a small pod. 50' 5.9
P4: Move back up about 10' to a decent ledge follow ledge to the right past belay 4 on The Matrix to belay 3 on Little Miss Dangerous. 150' 5.9
P5: Walk right then downclimb easy corner to belay 3 on Warrior's Way. 120' 5.4
P6: Downclimb Warrior's Way passing 4 bolts or so before angling down and right to a right facing dihedral. Downclimb dihedral to gain belay 2 on The Great Ah Ha. Sketchy for the second. 180' 5.8
P7: Walk right along ledge the face climb up to another grassy patch. Clip the optional belay on pitch 3 of Volunteer wall and continue down and right over a series of left facing flakes. Move right along a ledge with grass and a tree past, belay 3 on Last of the Dixie Trads, to a gear belay #2 on Mainline. 300' 5.7
P8: Climb up 30 to a ledge with loose blocks. Move right along ledge with some face climbing to belay 3 on Traditions. Very runout. 230' 5.8
P9: Downclimb 10 off the belay then move right to a small right facing corner with a Mountain Laurel growing out of it. Move down around the Laurel then to the right to a large dihedral. A tricky move right crosses the dihedral brings you to belay 3 on The Original Route. 120' 5.10
P10: Go right past a huge grey dihedral to a grassy ledge. Boulder up over a bulge to another ledge and move right climbing down to the right end of a ledge with a large pine tree. 150' 5.7
P11: Climb down off the right side of the ledge to another ledge. Move up and right over ramps passing a bolt and a tree. Belay at the far right side of a tree ledge. 240' 5.5
P12: Traverse right around a beautiful left facing dihedral. Continue past belay 2 on Clivis Multrum. Belay at the tree at belay 3 on Clivis Multrum. 150' 5.6
P13: Climb pitch 4 of Clivis Multrum to a ledge with a gear belay in a wide horizontal (3"-4".) 100' 5.3
P14: Escape out the 4th class finish for Clivis Multrum.
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