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Routes in Southeast Face

Arm and Hammer T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bloody Bolts and Brown Trousers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0
Catholic School Girls Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Children of the Sun T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b A0-1 PG13
Connections T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a A0 R
Crown of Thorns T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
First Mate T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Great Ah Ha, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Matrix, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
New Diversions T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Original Route (aka Gom Jabber) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Parental Guidance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Perverse Incentive T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Traditions T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Volunteer Wall, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Warriors Way T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Whippin' Boy T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whiteside Girdle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Arno Ilgner, Mark Cartwright, Eddie Whittemore - 1985 FFA: Arno Ilgner, Mark Ilgner - 1991
Page Views: 2,453 total, 28/month
Shared By: andjoely on Oct 6, 2010
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Seasonal Falcon Closure Details

Description

Awesome route. Most of the route is well protected but the 1st pitch (p1 and p2 as shown in guide linked) has substantial runouts on easy terrain and the Rotten pitch has potential for very nasty long and unclean fall onto a slab if a hold breaks on you at the wrong spot on the way from the 2nd to 3rd bolt. Watch out for the crazy caver-rappellers, they tend to drop their massive clusters of rope and huge rocks right down on the route.

P1: climb slab up to huge hollow flakes, continue up to a bolt, climb nice left facing corner to a belay bolt, then continue up and left past a bolt then up past a bogus pin then up face (keep sharp eye out for gear) and continue to 2 bolt belay on register ledge 40 feet left of the top of the obvious left facing corner to the right (5.11a, 190 ft)
P2: walk right along register ledge then clip a fixed pin with a long sling and continue up face following path of least resistance to base of the huge right facing coal mine corner (5.8, 150 ft)
P3: "The coal mine" Climb the corner past a bolt and then past some small gear (a #2 ballnut works good as do micronuts) Continue to 2 bolt anchor to the left and make sure rope doesn't run through notch of crack. (5.11d/12a, 80 ft)
P4: "The Happy Hooker Pitch" make a mantly move to gain the face, then continue up and right past 2 well spaced bolts and perhaps a fixed head. to a 2 bolt belay (5.10c, 70 ft)
P5: "The Rotten Pitch" clip a low first bolt, make tricky moves to gain a hard to clip 2nd bolt (watch out for a 1 foot ledge below you if you fall) then continue up and left on kinda rotten terrain and hope those big creaky jugs don't break (probably way better now than it used to be). Continue to two bolt anchor.
P6: "The Jump Pitch". One of the best pitches ever. Pull the roof then continue up the excellent face. Well spaced gear / bolts but totally clean falls into space
P7: "The bathtub Pitch" traverse 50 feet to the right and climb past a bolt into the "bathtub" then place a #4 camalot on the right side and continue up the tightly bolted face above to a moderate crack (5.11d). traverse left to caver bolts and belay
P8. 5.4

Location

Between The Great Aha and Last of the Dixie Trads. Just before the trail along the base of the SE face scrambles down a 25 foot ledgy granite slab, scramble up to a narrow tree ledge 25 feet up.

Protection

Singles of cams to #4, nuts including micro ones. all the bolts are replaced or in good condition.

Photos

andjoely
Menlo Park, CA
 
andjoely   Menlo Park, CA
 
there's only like a 5 foot band of suspect rock on the rotten pitch and its really pretty stable now but its still a good idea to test the holds before grabbing them and pull gently because of the nasty fall potential of swinging into a slab. I was expecting a very scary route based on stories of long falls I've heard but it's not that bad and the cruxes are straightforward for the grade. It's wierd that only a handful of people climb the routes on the left side as its probably one of the best walls in the U.S. for steep face climbing and most of it is fairly well protected by face climbing standards. Arm and hammer is probably the easiest / best protected route on that side and I'll try to post detailed beta for it sometime if I get bored. Oct 8, 2010
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
That is pretty impressive especially considering some of the rock on the "rotten pitch"...nice work! Oct 7, 2010
Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
Stephen Felker   Boulder, CO
While not sure how many onsights this route has seen, I found it mighty impressive to follow Mr. Andjoely as he did just that. (vicarious spray, LOL)

I wanted to _ the noob rappellers when they dropped a ~25 lb. rock over the edge. Their excuse, "...but I yelled ROPE." I explained that they narrowly missed negligent homicide. If you see them, please warn the cavers to assume that there are people below them, sheesh. Oct 7, 2010