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Routes in Old Easy

Bear Flare, The T V6 7A
Biggest Lips in Rock 'n' Roll, The V3 6A
Biggest Tits in Country Music, The T V3 6A
Bombay Hooker V6 7A
Boneghazi V3 6A
Borg, The V12 8A+
Cheap Perfume V1 5
Cheap Perfume Direct V1 5
Cincinatti Sua Slide T V5-6 6C+
Classic Splitter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V-easy 3
Dancing All Night T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Desiderata T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a V5- 6C
Finger Fantasy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gehe Jetzt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Grief T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guardian T V7 7A+
Hatchet, The V6 7A
MRC Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
MRC Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Name Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Old Easy Arete (aka "Arettez Maintenant") S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Psychoshop T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b V7 7A+
Red Snapper, The T V10 7C+
Reverse Cowgirl V2 5+
Soggy Bottom T V5 6C
Straight Edge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Boulder
FA: to be determined
Page Views: 437 total · 15/month
Shared By: R Sather on Jun 20, 2016
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details


This route is a thin hands flare though a roof. It is possibly hand size dependent. I found the crux getting to a ledge out left above the lip. I wasn't quite sure what to rate this crack, but it sure was fun! It is harder than Biggest Tits in my opinion, similar to Nat's Three Star Roof, but Nat's is easier, and easier than Beer Crack. All are rated V3.


I'm logging this problem in hopes to clarify the approach to TBTICM for others.

Park in the Box Canyon parking area, and walk toward the Old Easy formation. We found a faint trail off left of the main road through some aspens and headed up the slabs of the old easy formation trending right. Keep your eyes out for the large, 60 foot tall rock formation that is pictured. Once you have found this boulder, continue up the slabs left of the rock formation, and find a somewhat exposed foot traverse that will bring you around the back side of the pictured boulder. I'm sure there is more than one way to approach this formation, but this is what seemed most obvious to myself.

The Biggest Lips is an obvious crack system located to the left of TBTICM on the same rock formation. We actually mistook this crack system for Biggest Tits and walked right past it. Biggest Tits is in somewhat of a tunnel. I hope some more info helps! Get on it!


We happened to have a lot of pads the day we did this problem which helped. There is a "Tiger Trap" right underneath the crack, a pit of sorts. Basically there is a flaring gape under this problem, but it is protectable with enough pads or pure bravado and strength!



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