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Routes in Old Easy

Bear Flare, The T V6 7A
Biggest Lips in Rock 'n' Roll, The V3 6A
Biggest Tits in Country Music, The T V3 6A
Bombay Hooker V6 7A
Boneghazi V3 6A
Borg, The V12 8A+
Cheap Perfume V1 5
Cheap Perfume Direct V1 5
Cincinatti Sua Slide T V5-6 6C+
Classic Splitter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V-easy 3
Dancing All Night T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Desiderata T V5- 6C
Finger Fantasy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gehe Jetzt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Grief T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guardian T V7 7A+
Hatchet, The V6 7A
MRC Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
MRC Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Name Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Old Easy Arete (aka "Arettez Maintenant") S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Psychoshop T V7 7A+
Red Snapper, The T V10 7C+
Reverse Cowgirl V2 5+
Soggy Bottom T V5 6C
Straight Edge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Justin Edl, 2003
Page Views: 6,533 total, 48/month
Shared By: JNE on Sep 18, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a beautiful fifteen foot offwidth roof. Start inverted at the very far end of the cave and work your way out, stacking your way out to and over the lip, after which the crack thins all the way down to fingers. Find the way that fights you the least. This is a very elegant moving problem. One of the best problems in Vedauwoo, and one of the best offwidth problems anywhere.

Location

This thing is way around the corner from MRC, baisically on the other side of the formation. To get there drive into Central and follow the signs to the "Beaver Pond" area or some other such name. Basically instead of turning left around the roundabout and heading down to the Gazeebo, continue straight and follow the road as it bends around, ending near the south east side of Old Easy. Park there by the bathroom. Looking up to the formation you will see a huge roof that faces south with some very large boulders under it. There is a thin aid seam splitting the left end of this roof and Desiderata is a couple hundred feet down from the wall, pretty much straigt in line with that seam. Desiderata generally faces west.

Protection

One pad for the lip is adequate.

Google Maps Link

Per Tom Ashley:

Click google.com/maps/place/41%C2…;47.7%22N+105%C2%B022'10.9%22W/@41.163244,-105.3702495,217m/data=!3m2!1e3!4b1!4m9!1m2!2m1!1svedauwoo!3m5!1s0x0:0x0!7e2!8m2!3d41.1632433!4d-105.3697008?shorturl=1
Here's the approximate location. Google maps link since the mountain project maps functionality is shit.

goo.gl/maps/ASsTNfkzySq Oct 30, 2017
Hanson Smith
Boulder, CO
Hanson Smith   Boulder, CO
Desiderata

Go placidly amid the noise and haste,
and remember what peace there may be in silence.
As far as possible without surrender
be on good terms with all persons.
Speak your truth quietly and clearly;
and listen to others,
even the dull and the ignorant;
they too have their story.
Avoid loud and aggressive persons,
they are vexations to the spirit.
If you compare yourself with others,
you may become vain and bitter;
for always there will be greater and lesser persons than yourself.
Enjoy your achievements as well as your plans.
Keep interested in your own career, however humble;
it is a real possession in the changing fortunes of time.
Exercise caution in your business affairs;
for the world is full of trickery.
But let this not blind you to what virtue there is;
many persons strive for high ideals;
and everywhere life is full of heroism.
Be yourself.
Especially, do not feign affection.
Neither be cynical about love;
for in the face of all aridity and disenchantment
it is as perennial as the grass.
Take kindly the counsel of the years,
gracefully surrendering the things of youth.
Nurture strength of spirit to shield you in sudden misfortune.
But do not distress yourself with dark imaginings.
Many fears are born of fatigue and loneliness.
Beyond a wholesome discipline,
be gentle with yourself.
You are a child of the universe,
no less than the trees and the stars;
you have a right to be here.
And whether or not it is clear to you,
no doubt the universe is unfolding as it should.
Therefore be at peace with God,
whatever you conceive Him to be,
and whatever your labors and aspirations,
in the noisy confusion of life keep peace with your soul.
With all its sham, drudgery, and broken dreams,
it is still a beautiful world.
Be cheerful.
Strive to be happy.

Max Ehrmann, Desiderata Jul 1, 2017
JNE
 
JNE  
 
Patrick Kingsbury wrote:

"I'd suggest using mortar, but your craftsmanship on the "Equilibrium" sucks. "

Solid gaslighting, Patrick!

Are you taking at least partial credit for the poorly attempted character smear here then? The poorly, or unsolidly attempted gaslighting, to be clear?

Which is to ask, are you one of the upstanding citizens who thinks it would be funny or otherwise satisfying to see someone seriously maimed or killed by this boulder? If so, extra solid.... Oct 11, 2015
Nickerson
Boulder, CO
Nickerson   Boulder, CO
Though the lip is definitely the crux, the first fifteen feet are pure inverted bliss. Sep 18, 2011
molony
 
molony  
 
Awesome, plain and simple. Aug 4, 2009
strappoh
Boulder, CO
strappoh   Boulder, CO
Wow! I recall seeing this spilit boulder many years ago, but never even considered climbing it like a roof. Bravo! Jun 12, 2009
JNE
 
JNE  
 
Desiderata Aug 6, 2008
JNE
 
JNE  
 
I will definitely get in touch with you the next time I am headed out to Yosemite, Will. I really want to check out The Cedar Eater, sounds really cool. Aug 25, 2007
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
It's a great problem Justin. I liked it so much I went to it 3 times over my 2 week trip and did the crux 3 different ways: hand/fist stack to get the knee up high then a long reach into a wide cup, crimping up the right edge to a long reach to a fist, and bumping up stacks until it goes cupped.

Doing this and Spinning the Wind (or Spin to Win, seems like diffrent names everywhere I look) were alot of fun and validation of the stuff I put up in the Valley this spring. You should definitely check out Cedar Eater if you get to Yosemite, it's like a longer, harder, more varied version of Desiderata...and drop me a line if you're headed out there I'll give you the scoop on the two roof OW problems I estalished near Camp 4. One is very reminscent of Spin/Win. Aug 21, 2007
JNE
 
JNE  
 
Glad you liked the line Will. Definitely not 12+. The rating on this site is for stacking over the lip. The problem is much easier if you undercling into a fist jam, probably 11- that way. Stacking is really fun due to the angle of the crack, very elegant and kinesthetic. To me it felt about as hard as Squat that way. Aug 20, 2007
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
A beautiful, aesthetic line, and not as hard as the .12d rating in the guide. The only drawback is how close to the ground it is. No free hanging off the feet for a rest before the crux, your head would hit the ground. Aug 20, 2007